Build Thread for Bridgeport Torq-Cut 30

[juspk]

Hello all!
I finally have some time to start a build thread for my Bridgeport Torq-Cut 30. I started this Centroid retrofit about 8 months ago and I think I'm at the point that I need some help/recommendations; so it's time to start a build thread. Searching these community boards has been a tremendous help so far, but lately, I'm getting my brain tied in a knot with some shielded wire questions. More on that next post.
A little info on my background. I've had the machine for about 10 years, in my home workshop. It was working up until the day I decided to update it with Centroid control. I am not a machinist, I am a hobby-machinist, but worked in a small prototype machine shop just outside Bridgeport, CT from when I was a sophomore in HS all the way through college (early 90's). It was the best job a kid could get. Bridgeport machines are somewhat nostalgic to me.
I pretty much know I went overboard with Reactors and EMI Filters for each drive, but...I'm just following the recommendations and this is my pet project . Through this build, I have learned things can go overboard in a hurry.

I have been documenting everything with 100's of pictures, in which I will post online eventually, but here is a summary.

Pre tear-down except spindle cover removed:

Original Factory Cabinet:

Getting Naked:

No Turning Back:

Definitely no turning back:

Bench testing:

Layout, but not the final:

Starting new Centroid install:

Current Status (I plan on removing one of the relay boards. Too crowded and not needed. I added it, at first, just because Hickory comes with it):

[cncsnw]

In your layout, don't forget to include distribution terminal blocks for your 24VDC for inputs; 24VDC for outputs; and 240VAC for the ATC motors and arm motor brake.

It will help if those terminals are close to where all of the I/O wires enter the cabinet via the gland panel below the main fuses.

For every switch or sensor you connect to an input terminal on the Hickory, there will be another wire (or two, for prox sensors) that needs to land on a distribution terminal block.

For every solenoid output you connect to a relay on a relay board, there will be another wire that needs to land on a distribution terminal block.

The lube pump and coolant pump outputs (if you keep the original 120VAC units) will each need a neutral wire landed on a distribution terminal block.

The carousel motor, arm motor, and arm motor brake will each need a return wire connected to the second 240VAC leg (with the first leg connected through output relays).

What is your source of 120VAC? Does it have enough capacity to power the DC supplies for Hickory, inputs, and outputs; and also to power the lube pump and coolant pump?

[juspk]

Thank you for the advice. Actually, I'm at the point where I'm about to install the terminal blocks. I plan on installing a bank of blocks on both side walls of the cabinet. My source for 120V is on the left hand side. It is Centroid PN 4953. I think it should be capable enough but I will double check that. I'm doing my best to follow drawings S15219_r3 and S15250_r1 since I'm installing a new Delta C2000+ VFD. I believe the coolant pump motor can be reconfigured to run 220v and that was my plan and continue to follow drawing S15219 with CNT2 and OCR2 configured 220v single phase. Schneider Electric has an article on how to do that.

Here is where I'm stuck. It is my understanding that all sensor wires should be shielded (carousel stops and counters, estop, limit, etc) but it doesn't look like any of the original Bridgeport sensor wires are. The only original shielded and grounded wires I see are the encoders, the original DC motors and the original VFD wires. Am I missing something? Why are the others not shielded and grounded? I plan on attaching those original sensor wires to a terminal block that will be placed on the right side wall of the cabinet, then run them to the appropriate locations. Even though they aren't shielded coming into the cabinets should I shield and ground them from the terminal block to their final location? Will that be enough? Do I need to rewire all the original sensor wires coming into the cabinet with shielded wire and ground them at the terminal block?
Also, I purchased the Console to Electrical Cabinet Cable in Conduit for Hickory (SKU: 15137) and the estop cable doesn't look to be shielded. Does it need to be? The unshielded estop wires need to run to multiple places in the cabinet so I'm confused if they need to be.

Lastly, on drawing S15250, it shows a 15 wire shielded cable from the VFD to multiple locations. How to you run to multiple places on the Hickory board, terminal block and relays and keep them all shielded? I was think on getting 5 or 6 shielded wire cable and run them in groups that are in close proximity. Is that the best way?

Thanks in advance for any advice you have.

[glbreil]

Hello, I think you only have to be concerned with shielding for things like your VFD that has high frequency bleed over, communications wires, and things that operate at really low voltage, or send signals in milliamps and that sort of thing.

For sensors and limit switches and other things that simply provide a contact closure for a signal it’s not really that important as long as the important things are properly shielded. Also as a rule from the terminal block to the boards in the control panel wiring isn’t generally shielded, but it would be good practice to keep the low voltage separated from the high voltage.

It is also good practice however to keep things like the VFD separate from all those components and wiring. Some machines have a separate cabinet for the high voltage and things like the drives.

Gary

[juspk]

Do I need to use shielded wire for the VFD power supply from the EMI/RFI filter to the VFD (red lines shown in picture)? I get mixed answers from Google. My thoughts are that after going through the EMI/RFI filter, the electricity is clean and I want to use shielded cable to keep it clean but on the other hand, I feel it may be overkill. I completely understand that shielded cable is required from the VFD output to the motor.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

[cncsnw]

I do not think there is any need for shielded cable there.

It should be clean 60Hz power (unlike the output of a servo drive or VFD); it is a very short run; and it is not running parallel with any of your signal cables.

[juspk]

Some small progression in the last few days. I 3D printed some covers for the external connections that I removed. I added some terminal blocks on the side walls and started wiring. There is one thing that I would like to talk to Centroid directly about. The monitor and glass on the console is slipping down on its own (see last picture).

[CentroidFrog]

Regarding the slipping screen.
I have the suspicion that the screws may be missing on the left side that are meant to hold it in place behind the bezel.
The screen is relatively easy to remove:
1. Remove the 8 screws from the front panel.
2. Remove the control panel, likely needing to unplug it from the screen/computer.
3. Remove the screen/bezel.
There should be 4 brackets holding the screen to the bezel; 2 on the right and 2 on the left.
I'm guessing the 2 on the left are missing the screws meant to hold them together, causing the drooping of the left side.

[juspk]

Regarding the slipping screen.
I have the suspicion that the screws may be missing on the left side that are meant to hold it in place behind the bezel.
The screen is relatively easy to remove:
1. Remove the 8 screws from the front panel.
2. Remove the control panel, likely needing to unplug it from the screen/computer.
3. Remove the screen/bezel.
There should be 4 brackets holding the screen to the bezel; 2 on the right and 2 on the left.
I'm guessing the 2 on the left are missing the screws meant to hold them together, causing the drooping of the left side.

Great. thanks. I will give that a try.

[juspk]

Regarding the slipping screen.
I have the suspicion that the screws may be missing on the left side that are meant to hold it in place behind the bezel.
The screen is relatively easy to remove:
1. Remove the 8 screws from the front panel.
2. Remove the control panel, likely needing to unplug it from the screen/computer.
3. Remove the screen/bezel.
There should be 4 brackets holding the screen to the bezel; 2 on the right and 2 on the left.
I'm guessing the 2 on the left are missing the screws meant to hold them together, causing the drooping of the left side.

Unfortunately, it looks like it is a little more than the screws. For whatever reason, the touchscreen glass was either set incorrectly or the adhesive didn't hold and it slipped down. I cannot remove the glass from the screen and reset it; It is attached well enough to do that. How do I go about getting a replacement screen?