NEW BUILD! Chinese CNC 1313 replacing mach3

[Asdoyle1221]

You have input 1 set to "home all" and input 2 set to "home limit all". Pick one or the other but not both. Home limit all works best and it's simple. Then you can set up the travel limits in the wizard.

Are your limit switches wired in series? I assume you have 3 of them? One on each axis at the HOME position at the front left of the table.

As Ken stated you need to get each switch responding first before you can series them to a single input. You can wire each one to its own input but that will waste valuable inputs.

When i try to use the wized to setup using leadshine m series drive the machine goes the opposite direction when jogging. when i use db25 benchtest it works.

my estop buttons still dont do anything in relaton to the acorn board. other than the main e stop which turns off power to everything. the 2 estop buttons on the gantry apparently dont do anything.

I guess i just dont understand. the wires are hooked up correctly. the proximity switches worked fine with the last motion controller.

no lights change on the board when i try to do anything, tool sensor doesnt respond, limit switches dont respond.

its as if the board isnt sending power to the proximity switches.

Im ss lost here. and just want to give up.is there anyone who can help me get this thing running? or should i just sell it for scrap? im at a loss here.

[Asdoyle1221]

i am only getting 4vdc out of the 24vdc pin next to "in 4" on the board.

[Ken Rychlik]

I buy non running machines, but you won't like the offer.

If you post where you are, there might be someone near you, willing to help.

I am guessing you did not read the manual....

I am also guessing you are trying to reuse some of what was already wired alone.

You are asking 5 or more questions at a time and you need to pick one thing, stay on it, and fix it.

For the motor direction, you can reverse direction of any motor in the wizard, or you can switch any pair of coil wires on a stepper. Like switch a+ and a-

Post what schematic drawing you are following.

Post some pics of what wiring you have done, and someone will probably spot some of what you have done wrong.

[ShawnM]

As Ken’s stated you are ALL over the place and it would be helpful if you answer questions that the forum members ask of you. We want to help you but we need info to do this. Help us help you.

Your Wizard is not configured correctly so don’t rely on some things working correctly just yet.

You ask about control panel layout, all you have to do is remove the old Mach 3 controller and mount the Acorn and relay board in the same area/place. All your wires are ran to this location and it should take very little time to swap them out.

First, post what wiring diagram you are following. Centroid provides A LOT of diagrams and many of them are for the Leadshine and Leadshine clone drives.

Second, are you reading the install manual? There’s a TON of info and answers in there. Don’t just start hooking up wires until you understand what it is you are hooking up.

If none of your inputs are working I’m betting you don’t have 24 volts hooked to the Acorn input logic power. This would be discussed in the install manual and on the wiring diagrams.

The Acorn DOES NOT power any sensors on your machine. You must provide a power supply and power them independent of the Acorn and then wire the trigger to any of the 8 Acorn inputs. This is also outlined in the install manual.

Since you bought a FULLY working machine all the sensors have their own power supply already so you only need to move the trigger from the old controller to Acorn.

Once you have Acorn powered up with all the necessary and basic connections start with one input at a time and get it working and move on to the next.

If your drives move opposite of what they need to there’s a simple box in the Wizard to check to reverse it. This is also in the install manuals.

Please verify you have all the basic connections and power wired to Acorn before you go any further. Once that’s done correctly please start with wiring all three of your estop buttons in series using the NC side of the switches. This would be a priority in case you need to do an estop during your setup and testing since you are new to this.

[Ken Rychlik]

Shawn, on the last one I did the proxy sensors got their 24v from the controller. I would not rely on just replacing the controller and expecting everything to function. It all needs to be redone at the point the wires go into the controller and hit those terminal blocks to be safe. If the sensors are compatible, he should be ok from there.

[ShawnM]

Shawn, on the last one I did the proxy sensors got their 24v from the controller. I would not rely on just replacing the controller and expecting everything to function. It all needs to be redone at the point the wires go into the controller and hit those terminal blocks to be safe. If the sensors are compatible, he should be ok from there.

Absolutely, I agree Ken. I was just telling him that the Acorn DOES NOT power any proximity sensors (like some controllers) and that he needs to provide a power source for the 24v for the proximity sensors. He stated somewhere that he was trying to read a voltage on the Acorn when he was talking about the sensors.

Centroid provides generic wiring diagrams for proximity sensors, e-stops and all the other ancillary parts on his machine.

[Asdoyle1221]

Okay, thank you for the info, I will try to answer in an organized fashion. I apologize, I'm overwhelmed.

1. I am located in northeast Houston, TX.
2. No, I have not read all 500 pages of the manual, nor did I memorize every line of g code in the manual. Although, I have been using the manual in conjunction with the forum to solve problems. I assumed that was a good way to go about it. If I need to memorize the entire manual before asking questions on the forum, them ill be back in a few months to pick up where we left off. That just seems like the long way around. after all, if I had the entire manual memorized, I wouldnt need any help at all!

3. This is the schematic that Ive been using, provided by Shawn M. in the first reply of the thread. https://www.centroidcnc.com/dealersuppo ... 976.r4.pdf

4. For the layout, I have moved things around in order to separate signal wires and high voltage wires. I have replaced the existing vfd with this one I had in the shop, its easier to navigate the parameters.

5. I ran a jumper from the 24vdc in the the 24vdc next to the inputs and the sensors are working properly, I configured the axis and auto homing using the switches. Thats all done. I see that there are 2 24vdc inputs on the board, do i need to run a separate power supply to the 24vdc pin next to the one thats powering the board?

6. I will post pictures of the wiring directly after this post, they will be in the drive folder.

7. I configured the drives as db25 bench test and everything is running, but it still needs to be setup because the tavel on the DRO is reading 5.5 inches and the real world travel is 20.75 inches.

[ShawnM]

Shane, no one has asked you to memorize the install manual, besides it's only 138 pages and not 500. You certainly don't need to memorize ANY g code. I get it that you are overwhelmed but sitting and reading the install manual would have helped with understanding what is required and many things would have made more sense to you. I know, we're guys, we don't read manuals but in this case you should.

Reason being, A LOT of the questions you are asking are answered in the install manual and/or on the wiring diagrams. Centroid provides the BEST documentation compared to any other controller available.

The 24v input to the board located on H9 is internally jumpered to the pin next to it. This is outlined on the wiring diagram I linked for you in the first post.

Since you wired 24v to either the input on H1 or H4 now you see your inputs are working as they should. This is also often overlooked on the wiring diagram. No worries there.

The schematic I linked to is just a jumping off point to get things moving. Your limit switches dont wire up the same as that diagram because those are mechanical switches wired in series and you have proximity switches. But you say they are working now and that's great.

You can leave the drives configured as DB25 for now and create a custom one later for your exact drives.

The reason your motors move 20.75 inches and not the 5.5 like the DRO is because you have not setup your overall turns ratio correctly in the wizard. How do you do that you ask? It's covered in the install manual in chapter 7. You'll probably need to also set up the steps per revolution so the drives and the wizard settings match each other. How do you do that you ask? Yup, you guessed it, it's covered in the install manual. Seeing a pattern here?

Please post a FRESH, NEW report from your machine so we can see how things are configured now and we can help you along from here.

Did you get the e-stops wired up in series and working?

[Asdoyle1221]

Thank you for the reply.
Yes, I got the e stops working. And I configured the overall turns ratio by measuring and counting the rotations. Steps per rotation are set to 1600. Not sure if thats correct but the machine seems to be cutting fine.

I will create a new report when I get back in the shop this afternoon.

[ShawnM]

Glad you are making progress. 1600 is good for open loop steppers. Make sure the drives DIP switches are set to 1600 and make sure the wizard is also set to 1600. They MUST match.

You can dial in and fine tune the overall turns ratio with good precision using a dial caliper and some math.

Hopefully you corrected your inputs and the machine is automatically homing correctly for you as well.

Did you get your new VFD setup and it's now controlled with Acorn?