Build Thread - Shariff DMC2 Retrofit to Acorn

[eh1524]

You now have to post a link to that google album so we can see the pics.

Should be on my very first post but I'll add it again. I created the album at the beginning of this journey when it was recommended, I just wasn't adding all the pictures into it.

[eh1524]

I've also since ordered a large box with a mounting plate in it and ventilation, new ribbon cables and other wiring so I can enclose all these components and give them some more space and proper protection and venting. Once that comes in I'll mount all the components to it and provide some updated pictures. It would be good to know however if I need any additional components so I can properly orient and mount them in the box. Do you think that S-400-36 StepperOnline power supply is what I need to drive all the motors? I'm just wondering why it was previously setup with one pair of power leads going out and all my motors were connected directly to the old Mach3 board.

[ShawnM]

Do yourself a favor and get a larger 48V power supply. Those are 50V drives and driving them with 36 volts leaves speed and torque on the table. A good rule of thumb is to power the drives with the maximum voltage you can.

A larger enclosure is a great idea. Measure for the size you need and buy the next biggest one. You'll always run out of room and wish you'd bought a larger one. Make sure it has a METAL backplane and not plastic or anything else.

When you power the drives run a set of wires to each drive from the power supply, do not daisy chain the drive power lines. Home run the positive and negative wires all the way from the drive to the power supply.

I would not use ribbon cables either. Best practice is to use shielded cables for the step and direction signals to help filter out unwanted RFI and/or EMI from the drive signals. Ribbon cable might be ok for the enable and alarm signals but not a good choice for drive signals. Just food for thought.

[eh1524]

Do yourself a favor and get a larger 48V power supply. Those are 50V drives and driving them with 36 volts leaves speed and torque on the table. A good rule of thumb is to power the drives with the maximum voltage you can.

A larger enclosure is a great idea. Measure for the size you need and buy the next biggest one. You'll always run out of room and wish you'd bought a larger one. Make sure it has a METAL backplane and not plastic or anything else.

When you power the drives run a set of wires to each drive from the power supply, do not daisy chain the drive power lines. Home run the positive and negative wires all the way from the drive to the power supply.

I would not use ribbon cables either. Best practice is to use shielded cables for the step and direction signals to help filter out unwanted RFI and/or EMI from the drive signals. Ribbon cable might be ok for the enable and alarm signals but not a good choice for drive signals. Just food for thought.

Ok, makes sense. I ordered shielded 10 core cable that I can use for the signal wire in place of the ribbon cables. I also ordered a 48v 600 watt power supply. Should be here by the end of the weekend. Yes, I planned on running the power as home runs not daisy chained. I'll post once I get everything mounted in the new box. I do have aluminum sheets (1/8") that I could adapt as a mounting plate for the back of the box but I'm curious why it makes a difference as opposed to plastic; is it for grounding purposes or just the strength to hold all the components?

[ShawnM]

Back planes should ALWAYS be metal for the reason you guessed, grounding. NEVER plastic. Unpainted, galvanized steel is the best option but anything METAL is good. Again, never plastic.

Shielded, twisted pair is best for step/direction signals(22/4 is sufficient) but what you ordered should work ok.

Be sure and use shielded, twisted pair for the VFD analog signal as well. (22/2 wire)