New Rebuild on Sherline Chucker Lathe & New build on 5400 mill

[BillB]

Hey all I think I'm outa the woods.

on the lathe
I got the short issue resolved, but could never pinpoint what the issue was for sure, the system is running as it should. Bittersweet, I thought it was going to be so something to do with the spindle boards or tool setter but they're fine and not causing any shorts. So at least for now all is good, if anyone has input on a sudden short, then disconnecting everything, putting back together one by one then the short is gone LMK. I suspect it could rere its ugly face again but for now back on line.
THANK YOU MARTY for the guidance!

Spindle control is dialed in.
turns out what I could figure out on this was when adjusting the pots dozens of times while trying to figure it out the minimum trim pot was outputting negative voltage not 0. It was in -0. Doesn't seem possible and did not even notice it but I think this was the issue with such inconsistencies in the inout and output of RPMs. You guys tell me? Anyways once I realized that setting it to actual 0 did the trick. Dialed the max pot to 10V and was within an acceptable range of RPM deviation. Still not perfect but close enough for now.

question on this. Sherline's recommendation on dialing the spindle in is to set to 5-8 volts. Marty you say to set at 10V then adjust the pots on the KBIC board, however Sherline "glues" those pots so you can't readjust them at least on the lathe board, AND my friend broke the max pot off when we were trying to figure it all out. So I ended up just playing with the adjustment on the KBSI-240D max pot to what ever voltage would yield the closest RPM match to the MDI input. I think I ended up at 9.4 -9.6. My max RMP is 2800 so at 1400 MDI input I'm getting 1400 at the encoder within a couple of RMPs. Is it better to dial in for mid-range, Low, OR high-end? I will be doing threading so maybe that should be what dictates where I should set it. ? You guys tell me. I'm not even sure what F&S are for threading yet. I did end up buying a handheld tach (same one as you Marty). The RPMs CNC12 is showing is very close to the reading on the tach within a few RPMs.

the really slow RMPs seem like that could cause issues when trying to figure out what speeds to program I need to look at it a bit more. You guys tell me?

So the question is do I call it good or try and figure out how to unglue and fix the broken pot? And try dialing in closer via the KBIC board?

I did end up getting and installing inline fuses on the incoming AC and outgoing DC legs.
As per your video on this topic Marty I do not have an enable circuit wired. Do I need it?

thanks to all with a special thanks to Mary I so appreciate all the help!

[martyscncgarage]

Lower end speed range where you do your threading and tapping should be closer than the high end

You dial in the max rpm with the max pot and a hand held tachometer.
If the max terminal voltage is less than what the KBIC puts out, you could damage the motor. It's why you want to stick close to the manufacturers RPM recommendations.

I would be the short will reappear. Make sure you have plenty of clearance on the bottom of Acorn and all your wire insulation is good and not nicked.

Need and tidy wiring is essential with CNC

[BillB]

Lower end speed range where you do your threading and tapping should be closer than the high end

You dial in the max rpm with the max pot and a hand held tachometer.
If the max terminal voltage is less than what the KBIC puts out, you could damage the motor. It's why you want to stick close to the manufacturers RPM recommendations.

I would be the short will reappear. Make sure you have plenty of clearance on the bottom of Acorn and all your wire insulation is good and not nicked.

Need and tidy wiring is essential with CNC

So based on what I said above do you think I’m good to go for now on the spindle?
And what range of S&F would I be for threading for this little lathe?

[BillB]

OK on to the next and I think one of the last things to resolve.

As per one of my previous posts, the mill spindle control is still down. I did more investigation on the KBSI-240D yesterday and I'm getting
118V on AC in
10 volts coming into the KBSI-240D from Acorn at leads 5&6.
0 volts coming out of leads 9&10 when inputting 2800 RPMs or any RPMs in MDI with max set to 2800 in the wizard.
this board is new old (never used) stock I purchased on eBay.

How do I proceed to test and determine if this board is bad?

Also, input on how to test the KBLC board to figure out if it's ok. I pulled the part from the enclosure to make sure what model it is. Turns out it's not a KBIC it's a
KBLC-240DS (3375A)

[BillB]

Deleted, double post

[BillB]

Hey Guys So last night as im working on the lathe getting myfun.mac set up and tools set up all was good till it wasn't. I go to spin up the spindle and its dead. MDI or manual start, dead, No voltage coming out of 9&10 and no voltage coming out of 5&. Mins before this I ran the spindle to touch off on some stock. Then when to myfun set up for Z0 X0. Was playing with the and made 1 change to the CVP AUX keys was trying to set M56 M 57 to X0 Y0. I only made one change, Aux Key 7, but now put it back to NONE. So anyways now both machine spindles are down. I still have not resolved the mill spindle issue as I explained it before. Man I am SO frustrated. I was literally steps away from being done now a whole new can of worms.

SO last few days Ive been thinking about "if the mill board/s are burnt out" should I swap out those boards with something else. And now with the possibility of the lathe board being damaged I guess im at a cross roads. Assuming I do need to replace both boards with something completely different Is that even an option with the little 90V DC Sherline motor? I've come this far and I don't want to settle for something I may have issues with down the line. Im SO glad you guys talked me into the drives and drivers upgrade, Question is should I do the same with spindle control??

What options do I have? What do you think of those older boards? IF given the same choice with a 90V DC motor how would you configure it?

Would a possible accidental change to the VCP Aux keys turn on some sort of spindle fault keeping it from running?

Thanks

[martyscncgarage]

First of all, and I believe I mentioned this before, ALWAYS create a report when you make progress. Rename the file something that describes the state of the machine. That way when you go changing things and things go South, you can restore a report.

If I were called to your place to trouble shoot things, I would use the Windows 10 snipping tool and take screen shots of all your Wizard pages, rename the CNCT directory to CNCT_OLD and do a fresh install of CNC12. Then I would take all the screen shots and input all the machine values by hand and get the machine moving again.

As for your spindle speed problem. Disconnect the KBSI240 D from Acorn, put your DC volt meter on Acorn Spindle Analog output and rerun the spindle bench test to ensure ACORN is ok.

Then move on from there.

There really isn't anything wrong with the DC Spindle motor (Unless IT is bad, but unlikely), I would ditch the KBSI-240D, the Original KB Electronics Spindle drive with its matching Signal Isolator. If you want to reverse the spindle then you will need a drive with that capability (Read more expensive)

DO NOT complicate things by tweaking or changing macros until the basic machine is functional with the default CNC12 Macros

My .02 on the subject.
Marty

[BillB]

First of all, and I believe I mentioned this before, ALWAYS create a report when you make progress. Rename the file something that describes the state of the machine. That way when you go changing things and things go South, you can restore a report.

If I were called to your place to trouble shoot things, I would use the Windows 10 snipping tool and take screen shots of all your Wizard pages, rename the CNCT directory to CNCT_OLD and do a fresh install of CNC12. Then I would take all the screen shots and input all the machine values by hand and get the machine moving again.

As for your spindle speed problem. Disconnect the KBSI240 D from Acorn, put your DC volt meter on Acorn Spindle Analog output and rerun the spindle bench test to ensure ACORN is ok.

Then move on from there.

There really isn't anything wrong with the DC Spindle motor (Unless IT is bad, but unlikely), I would ditch the KBSI-240D, the Original KB Electronics Spindle drive with its matching Signal Isolator. If you want to reverse the spindle then you will need a drive with that capability (Read more expensive)

DO NOT complicate things by tweaking or changing macros until the basic machine is functional with the default CNC12 Macros

My .02 on the subject.
Marty

The machine was completely functional prior to this issue, I was in the final steps in my build getting everything ready to make parts, tools set up and last thing was getting those macros set.

Not sure what you're saying here
(Read more expensive) ? is "read" a typo?

IF i were to change the drive do you have any recommendations for hardware with and without reverse so I can get an idea of cost?

[BillB]

First of all, and I believe I mentioned this before, ALWAYS create a report when you make progress. Rename the file something that describes the state of the machine. That way when you go changing things and things go South, you can restore a report.

If I were called to your place to trouble shoot things, I would use the Windows 10 snipping tool and take screen shots of all your Wizard pages, rename the CNCT directory to CNCT_OLD and do a fresh install of CNC12. Then I would take all the screen shots and input all the machine values by hand and get the machine moving again.

As for your spindle speed problem. Disconnect the KBSI240 D from Acorn, put your DC volt meter on Acorn Spindle Analog output and rerun the spindle bench test to ensure ACORN is ok.

Then move on from there.

There really isn't anything wrong with the DC Spindle motor (Unless IT is bad, but unlikely), I would ditch the KBSI-240D, the Original KB Electronics Spindle drive with its matching Signal Isolator. If you want to reverse the spindle then you will need a drive with that capability (Read more expensive)

DO NOT complicate things by tweaking or changing macros until the basic machine is functional with the default CNC12 Macros

My .02 on the subject.
Marty

You did and I will restore my report in wizard tonight, I have been saving reports at each milestone.

The machine was completely functional prior to this issue, I was in the final steps in my build getting everything ready to make parts, tools set up and last thing was getting those macros set.

Not sure what you're saying here
(Read more expensive) ? is "read" a typo?

IF i were to change the drive do you have any recommendations for hardware with and without reverse so I can get an idea of cost?

I contacted CNC4PC and Arturo recommends this board.
https://www.cnc4pc.com/c41s-pwm-variabl ... board.html

What do you think?

[martyscncgarage]

A reversible drive will be more expensive.

Run the spindle benchtest to make sure Acorn is outputting the correct analog spindle voltage. You need to isolate where the problem is, Acorn, KBSI-240D, or KBIC

Did you create a report when everything was working?

I would create the Wizard Screen shots, rename the CNC12 directory, do a fresh install of CNC12, hand key in all the machine parameters into the fresh install using your screen shots and import your license if you didn't create a back up before tinkering around with macros.

what is "myfun.mac"?