Centroid Community CNC Support Forum

I have a few old bandsaws. That one is a 14” Walker Turner with the gear box for metal cutting, 20” Delta wood cutting that’s completely restored with a new 2HP motor and an original unmolested Powermatic 141 14” woodworking bandsaw. I love old iron!

Bench testing is complete. At first I thought I screwed up when I ordered the three layer sensor terminal blocks. They have worked out really nicely. Bottom row is 0vdc, middle row is +24vdc and top is sensor output to Acorn input. I used it on the DYN4 cable for bench testing and it worked well. I think those (two +24vdc and drive fault) will be combined in a ferrule in the final cabinet wiring.

Now I wait for UPS to bring the rest of my power distribution Tuesday.

https://youtu.be/w5hHNVyIFLE

Started the installation today. X and Z axis motors and home switches are mounted. The DMM motors dropped right in place.
Had a little scare with the X axis motor pulley. Got it sorted out though. So far, things are going well.

New proximity switches and motors are mounted and wired up. A little bit of work to finish lacing the cables back to the control cabinet in the morning. Then I can get to the control cabinet layout and wiring.

How I left it today.

One of the things that is really annoying with the Chinese manufactured machines is the marked lack of craftsmanship. The umbilical between the control cabinet and the cable track is a fine example. It's low quality and doesn't want to stay together. It's a 2" version of the convoluted tubing found under the hood of a 90's Chevy truck.
The **right** solution would be 2" liquitite or non-metallic, but I can't find a 10' chunk of it anywhere and I'm not buying a spool so I can get a 10' chunk. I did find this. It's an order of magnitute (or two) stronger than what came on the machine and I got what I needed, including two pipe thread ends shipped for about $90. Add a 2" chase nipple for each end and I have a workable, affordable solution.

I never liked the way the two 30a power inlets were setup on this, either. I'm adding flanged inlets on the other side of the enclosure.
Then a cord with a receptacle on the end makes it complete.
You can find these twist lock parts on ebay for much less than at the big box store or electrical supply house.

The **right** solution would be 2" liquitite or non-metallic, but I can't find a 10' chunk of it anywhere and I'm not buying a spool so I can get a 10' chunk. I did find this. It's an order of magnitute (or two) stronger than what came on the machine and I got what I needed, including two pipe thread ends shipped for about $90. Add a 2" chase nipple for each end and I have a workable, affordable solution.

I found this $3.32/Ft:
https://www.platt.com/platt-electric-su ... pid=948068

Platt said I have to buy the whole 50' coil.

https://wsies.com/ West Side Industrial sells Anamet Anaconda MTC conduit in all sizes by the foot (not just priced by the foot). Excellent elastomer coated metallic conduit that is extremely flexible.

2" is $4.35/foot https://wsies.com/catalogue/product/1000005007

Tom - I wish I would have known. I searched around online for a few hours and called every distributor within a hundred miles of me trying to find something.

I completely underestimated the amount of time this wiring would take. Both panels are now back in the cabinet. The original cabinet is working out well. All of the power and spindle drive are on one side, controls and servo drives on the other. I left long leads for the interconnects and did it all on the bench. Hope to have everything terminated and landed today.