shoptask turnado lathe to acorn

[KevinTaylor]

Once you get into it's pretty simple best way to use terminal boards and distribute power and grounds there is some videos also to help ya. But since vfd uses 220v brat to just keep it that way and just use one leg to get 110v. I have a g540 running one of my CNC mills works good for me. There are plenty of people here to help ya get it going.
Joe

So by using just 1 leg is giving 110V power to everything? I have a 3 wire 220V going in, I have only ever seen 220v having a 110v with 4 wire cable (the white neutral/110v). The last thing I want to do is fry something.

So do I also need to use the power box that came with the acorn board in addition to the power box that is already in the machine? I can wire the power box that came with the acorn board to the terminal block that the machine is using to get the 110v already?

See attached image power.png

Wire the e-stop as identified in the Centroid schematic only controlling the e-stop function to the Gecko 540 and the Acorn board as shown on the schematic. If the Turnado includes a stepper enable switch like the Mill-Turn you'll need to wire this in series with the e-stop switch.

Ok yes I have a stepper enable switch. So I have to re-wire the estop and stepper switch in series. The estop switch and stepper enable switch are both 4 pin, how is 4 pin switches wired in series, Do you by chance have an image I can look at?
Currently the estop is wired with 2 pins going to the power terminal block and 2 pins going to the spindle power switch. Basically take them out and just wire it up like in the schematic but in series with the stepper enable switch correct? My stepper enable has 2 free pins and 1 pin going to the g540 and one going to the power block. Just use the 2 free pins?
My stepper motor switch has a wire going to the g540 in pin10. That gets removed? (see more on my g540 pins below)

You will only be using positions 10, 11, and 12 on the Gecko 540 (I need to confirm this but from looking at the Gecko 540 diagram that sounds correct).

That seems correct based on the schematic. Do I take out all the wires from the vfd to g540? Wire gecko g540 pins 10 to the estop switch exactly like the schematic and leave pins 11 and 12 the same with the exception of also adding a wire to pin 12 for estop? Pin 11 and 12 currently go to the power block that came with the unit.
Currently my g540 is as follows:
Pin 1: goes to “mode switch” lathe/mill.
Pin2: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 4.
Pin 3: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 3.
Pin 4: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 2.
Pin 5: goes to D1 on my VFD.
Pin 6: goes to D2 on my VFD.
Pin 7: goes to COM on my VFD.
Pin 8: goes to A1 on my VFD.
Pin 9: goes to +10v on the VFD.
Pin 10: goes to stepper motor switch.
Pin 11: goes to 48v to power block.
Pin 12: goes to a 0v on the power block.

I attached image geckog540.png

The Acorn board will provide the analog 10 volt signal to the VFD.
Don't use the VFD 12 volt voltage out connection.
Use inputs COM and AIN1 on the Nowforever VFD for analog in from the analog out on the Acorn Board.

So use the h8 0-10vdc and 0-10vdc com on the schematic from the acorn to the vdf?

You'll need to make a connection from one of the Acorn outputs to the X1 terminal on the VFD to control the forward direction of the motor. The spindle will not run without this connection (ask me how I know). Use another Acorn output to X2 for reverse if you want to..

I don’t have the nowforever as we talked about in previous posts, but I did find the manual after a lot of searching. It seems page 24 and 25 have a description of the inputs and outputs, but they are labeled different than what you describe. So when you say one of the acorn outputs are we talking about the relay board out1-out8?

power.png and vfd.png show my wiring to vfd

Connect a DB25 cable from the Acorn board to the Gecko 540. That should be all the connections you need from the Acorn board to the Turnado to make it work.

So after everything above is addressed connecting the db25 cable, running through the wizard , theoretically I should be up and running?

Something you might need to consider is adding an encoder replacing what is basically a tachometer on the Trunado. You will need to do this to use constant surface speed turning and threading functions. I'm in the process of installing Omron encoders on my mill-turn. Then again, maybe they already started providing real encoders on the Shoptask product.

I will be using an omron encoder, after I get all of it set up first. What pulley system are you using to get you omron encoder set up? I know it needs to be a 1:1 ratio ( I think I read that somewhere). Do you have a recommendation on belt pulley?

[Dan M]

If you have 3 wire 240v it's 2 hots and a ground usually red (120v) black (120v) and green (ground). If you are trying to get 120v you need to pull a neutral wire from the panel. Look up 4wire 240v vs 3wire 240v.

Dan

[martyscncgarage]

If you have 3 wire 240v it's 2 hots and a ground usually red (120v) black (120v) and green (ground). If you are trying to get 120v you need to pull a neutral wire from the panel. Look up 4wire 240v vs 3wire 240v.

Dan

Absolutely correct Dan
Marty

[KevinTaylor]

If you are trying to get 120v you need to pull a neutral wire from the panel. Look up 4wire 240v vs 3wire 240v.

Dan

Ya, see thats what seems so wired to me. I have a 3wire 220 going into the machine. Yet the machine is powering the computer and dro (both 110 or 120 as you say).... makes no sense to me.

[martyscncgarage]

If you are trying to get 120v you need to pull a neutral wire from the panel. Look up 4wire 240v vs 3wire 240v.

Dan

Ya, see thats what seems so wired to me. I have a 3wire 220 going into the machine. Yet the machine is powering the computer and dro (both 110 or 120 as you say).... makes no sense to me.

Look at the power supplies. Likely rated for 220.
If they are 120 and they are using the ground, that's a no-no

[brittfussel]

rangerboy347 wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 4:58 pm
Once you get into it's pretty simple best way to use terminal boards and distribute power and grounds there is some videos also to help ya. But since vfd uses 220v brat to just keep it that way and just use one leg to get 110v. I have a g540 running one of my CNC mills works good for me. There are plenty of people here to help ya get it going.
Joe
So by using just 1 leg is giving 110V power to everything? I have a 3 wire 220V going in, I have only ever seen 220v having a 110v with 4 wire cable (the white neutral/110v). The last thing I want to do is fry something.

So do I also need to use the power box that came with the acorn board in addition to the power box that is already in the machine? I can wire the power box that came with the acorn board to the terminal block that the machine is using to get the 110v already?

See attached image power.png

My opinion is that you will need four wires - L1, L2, N and G - to break out a 110 volt circuit. You would be able to get 110 volts between either L1 or L2 and neutral. You will need to use the power supply that came with the Turnado as it is 48 volts that powers the stepper motors and the Meanwell power supply that came with the Acorn board as it provides the 24 volts needed by the Acorn board. I believe it also provides the 5 volts necessary for the relay board. It looks like the Meanwell power supply might be able to take a 220 volt input (see attached RD-35 Spec.pdf). You might confirm that with the people at Centroid.

brittfussel wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 4:58 pm
Wire the e-stop as identified in the Centroid schematic only controlling the e-stop function to the Gecko 540 and the Acorn board as shown on the schematic. If the Turnado includes a stepper enable switch like the Mill-Turn you'll need to wire this in series with the e-stop switch.

Ok yes I have a stepper enable switch. So I have to re-wire the estop and stepper switch in series. The estop switch and stepper enable switch are both 4 pin, how is 4 pin switches wired in series, Do you by chance have an image I can look at?
Currently the estop is wired with 2 pins going to the power terminal block and 2 pins going to the spindle power switch. Basically take them out and just wire it up like in the schematic but in series with the stepper enable switch correct? My stepper enable has 2 free pins and 1 pin going to the g540 and one going to the power block. Just use the 2 free pins?
My stepper motor switch has a wire going to the g540 in pin10. That gets removed? (see more on my g540 pins below)

Shopmaster did not provide a wiring diagram for the switches on the front panel so I made my own. The Shopmaster Wiring Diagram is as the wiring came from the factory. The Acorn version is what I re-wired the front panel to to work with the Acorn. The labeling for the wires is taken from my machine. It may or may not match yours.

You will only be using positions 10, 11, and 12 on the Gecko 540 (I need to confirm this but from looking at the Gecko 540 diagram that sounds correct).

That seems correct based on the schematic. Do I take out all the wires from the vfd to g540? Wire gecko g540 pins 10 to the estop switch exactly like the schematic and leave pins 11 and 12 the same with the exception of also adding a wire to pin 12 for estop? Pin 11 and 12 currently go to the power block that came with the unit.
Currently my g540 is as follows:
Pin 1: goes to “mode switch” lathe/mill.
Pin2: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 4.
Pin 3: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 3.
Pin 4: goes to a input pin on the back of my machine labeled pin 2.
Pin 5: goes to D1 on my VFD.
Pin 6: goes to D2 on my VFD.
Pin 7: goes to COM on my VFD.
Pin 8: goes to A1 on my VFD.
Pin 9: goes to +10v on the VFD.
Pin 10: goes to stepper motor switch.
Pin 11: goes to 48v to power block.
Pin 12: goes to a 0v on the power block.

I attached image geckog540.png

I removed all the wires to the Gecko 540 except Pins 10, 11 and 12. What you identified above is what I have.

The Acorn board will provide the analog 10 volt signal to the VFD.
Don't use the VFD 12 volt voltage out connection.
Use inputs COM and AIN1 on the Nowforever VFD for analog in from the analog out on the Acorn Board.

So use the h8 0-10vdc and 0-10vdc com on the schematic from the acorn to the vdf?

Yes. These would connect to the analog in terminals on your VFD.

You'll need to make a connection from one of the Acorn outputs to the X1 terminal on the VFD to control the forward direction of the motor. The spindle will not run without this connection (ask me how I know). Use another Acorn output to X2 for reverse if you want to..

I don’t have the nowforever as we talked about in previous posts, but I did find the manual after a lot of searching. It seems page 24 and 25 have a description of the inputs and outputs, but they are labeled different than what you describe. So when you say one of the acorn outputs are we talking about the relay board out1-out8?

power.png and vfd.png show my wiring to vfd

I used Relay 1 out NO to control forward. I plan to use Relay 2 out NO to control reverse when I finalize my wiring. I'm going to assume the DI1 is forward and DI2 is reverse from your schematics and reading the VFD manual. You need to make sure that the VFD parameters are correctly set to do this. It appears that these are P4-00 and P4-01 (see page 69 of the VFD manual).

brittfussel wrote: ↑Fri May 31, 2019 4:58 pm
Connect a DB25 cable from the Acorn board to the Gecko 540. That should be all the connections you need from the Acorn board to the Turnado to make it work.

So after everything above is addressed connecting the db25 cable, running through the wizard , theoretically I should be up and running?

Yes. Making these connections I was able to control the spindles and the stepper motors on my machine.

I will be using an omron encoder, after I get all of it set up first. What pulley system are you using to get you omron encoder set up? I know it needs to be a 1:1 ratio ( I think I read that somewhere). Do you have a recommendation on belt pulley?

I will respond to this in a separate response.

RD-35-SPEC.PDF

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ShopMaster Wiring Diagram.pdf

(23.25 KiB) Downloaded 98 times

Acorn.pdf

(23.06 KiB) Downloaded 103 times

[brittfussel]

June 4, 2019

Kevin

Ya, see thats what seems so wired to me. I have a 3wire 220 going into the machine. Yet the machine is powering the computer and dro (both 110 or 120 as you say).... makes no sense to me.

Check the back of the DRO. It may be rated for 220 volt input. Mine is.

The computer on the other hand I do not know. My computer was not wired in with the other controls. It's possible the computer has a power supply that can be switched between 110 and 220.


Britt

[Dan M]

If you are trying to get 120v you need to pull a neutral wire from the panel. Look up 4wire 240v vs 3wire 240v.

Dan

Ya, see thats what seems so wired to me. I have a 3wire 220 going into the machine. Yet the machine is powering the computer and dro (both 110 or 120 as you say).... makes no sense to me.

Are you in the USA? If so then yes we use 120v/240v residential service power in most places unless your house is very old and out of code. 120/240v is the current standard in the USA for new construction for residential.

Disclaimer: I'm not a electrician I've just worked with enough electrician's doing the hard work (installing conduit and pulling miles of wire) to have a good understanding of commercial and residential wiring. Also I'm not a industrial CNC technician or anything like that.

I've have however recently gone through everything you're dealing with right now. I spent quite a bit of time asking the same questions about bringing in the AC power for the DC power supplies. I've also spoken to a tech from meanwell to verify that the power supplies are fine to wire to 240v single phase 3wire power.

Europe uses 230v China 220v so from what I've seen most of the dc power supplies will accept 100-240v. So it sounds like the lathe has everything wired up for 220-240v. I personally would leave it if it's already wired up that way and it was working. Just make sure you have the properly sized circuit breaker and the plug and outlet are wired properly.

Edit:
(Make sure all the AC is grounded, I don't think the Chinese use a earth ground all the time. I watched a video from Haunyang where they wire a VFD and don't use a earth ground.)

Dan

[KevinTaylor]

Ok, you all are correct about the power. I have no devices running 120. Everything is running off 240. I should have not assumed the the DRO and computer automatically had to be running on a 120.

I Did look at the acorn power supply, and it does say on it that it will take a 240 line in. So Then I would hook the ground to ground, a hot to L and a hot to N and that would be fine?

brittfussel, I have been studying your panel switch wiring you uploaded. Mine seems to be similar, labels are the same but my wiring is different. They seem to both do the same thing however, and seem to be similar enough I feel if I re-wired my switches to your diagram it should be ok ( thats an assumption, and maybe a bad one. But I gotta get my feet wet with this or itll never get done).

Quick question though, your diagram has the mill/lathe switch going to "contractor coil". Is that the same as a "ac contactor"? Does yours look like the picture of mine?

If it does then I think I am going to re-wire my switches to match yours. And I should be ready to start my conversion.

[brittfussel]

June 6, 2019

Kevin

Ok, you all are correct about the power. I have no devices running 120. Everything is running off 240. I should have not assumed the the DRO and computer automatically had to be running on a 120.

Cool.

I Did look at the acorn power supply, and it does say on it that it will take a 240 line in. So Then I would hook the ground to ground, a hot to L and a hot to N and that would be fine?

Yes, connect L1 to L and L2 to N and ground to ground. Now that I've discovered this I may wire my Acorn power supply into 220 as well.

brittfussel, I have been studying your panel switch wiring you uploaded. Mine seems to be similar, labels are the same but my wiring is different. They seem to both do the same thing however, and seem to be similar enough I feel if I re-wired my switches to your diagram it should be ok ( thats an assumption, and maybe a bad one. But I gotta get my feet wet with this or itll never get done).

I've been playing with mine using the schematic I prepared and it is working. Just walk yourself through each circuit to make sure it makes sense to you.

Quick question though, your diagram has the mill/lathe switch going to "contractor coil". Is that the same as a "ac contactor"? Does yours look like the picture of mine?

From a earlier post of yours (picture provided here for convenience), your front panel matches mine even though you only have the lathe portion.

In my case the contractor has a set of NO contacts and a set of NC contacts. The NC contacts provide power to the motor for the mill. When you turn the switch to "Lathe" the contractor closes and provides power to the motor for the lathe. From what I read into your post yours does the same - switch to lathe and you can hear the contractor close. I'm surprised (or maybe I shouldn't be) that the Mill/Lathe switch is not already wired like my machine. Again, follow the electron as it flows through the wire and make sure it is going where you think it should.

You might want to take a look at the thread I started regarding the use of encoders. I found out this morning that the encoders I bought (2,000 PPR) will not work above 3,000 RPM. I plan to run my mill near 5,000 RPM so I'll need an encoder with a 1,200 PPR or less value. I have not looked at my lathe yet to see what it will be running at. If it is above 3,000 RPM I'll need to replace that encoder as well. The use of a correctly working encoder is necessary for constant surface speed turning, single point threading, and rigid taping.

Hope this helps.


Britt