E-Stop input has stopped working on DYNA 2400 Acorn Refit

[Grifftek]

report_F045DA80C465-0824181156_2018-11-07_22-39-42.zip

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I am at the end stage of finishing up this refit of an old Ahha retrofitted Dyna 2400.

Last night I hooked up my DIY version of a tool touch-off probe that I designed and built. I was able to get it working without much trouble. I'll make a separate post about the probe later.

Anyways, after buttoning the electrical cabinet back up I noticed that I wasn't getting any response to the E-Stop. I have an NC E-Stop Mushroom button and an NC momentary push button in series with each other hooked to input 3. This was working fine when I first hooked it up. I have unplugged the db25 connector and measured from pin 12 to ground and I have continuity that opens when either button is depressed.

When using the Alt I diagnostic screen I do not see input 3 change color when either switch is depressed.

I also connected 2 NO pushbutton switches to inputs 4 and 5 and I can see the LED change state when these buttons are depressed. I eventually would like to re-use these switches as feed hold and cycle start from the old control panel.

I have attached a fresh report file to this email and you can see some photos here:

Thanks

Bill Griffin

[cnckeith]

Bill,
Hello.
Use the inputs on the Green Header for Estop input, typically #8 is used for estop. K

[Grifftek]

OK, I can rewire it to use the green connectors But i'd still like to understand why it was working fine and now it's not working at all. There are a lot of old Ahha retrofits out there that could be candidates for a very simple retrofit to acorn using just a custom DB37 to DB25 adapter cable.

I tried restoring an earlier report to when I know the e-stop was working and it still didn't function, it's almost like the input has been damaged somehow.

THANKS

Bill Griffin

[cnckeith]

what voltage are you using for the estop circuit?

[Grifftek]

two NC switches hooked to DB25 Pin 12 Input 3. The other side of the switch is Gnd.

The other 2 inputs 4, 5 are hooked to a NO switch that pulls the pin to ground when the switch is closed. The LEDs switch properly on the Alt I screen.

Bill

[cnckeith]

please follow this schematic for estop circuit.

[martyscncgarage]

Bill assuming you have a DB25Male breakout board, can you plug it into your Acorn and take a jumper from each one of the grounds to your input and trigger it while watching the diagnostic screen?

Marty

[Grifftek]

When I do that, Input 3 does not change, the rest of the inputs work as expected. Input 3 was working fine in the beginning. It quit working after I wired up inputs 4 and 5 to use as cycle start and feed hold as the machines old retrofit control panel has a switch for feed hold and cycle start.

If I have time this weekend I'm going to switch out the acorn board and see if it is, in fact, a damaged input...
It just bugs me that it was working fine....was the first thing that was hooked up when I initially wired up the jumper cable from the old retrofits DB37 to the Acorn DB25.

[martyscncgarage]

I get it Bill.
I wired up an Estop to input 3 on my benchtest unit to make sure all was fine.
Seems to be OK

Disconnect your DB25 cable from Acorn, use a DB25 male breakout board and manually test ALL your inputs on the DB25 to make sure they are all working. Make sure no voltage is coming back on your adapter cable perhaps and may have damaged an input(s). I see and understand what you are trying to do, unfortunately during this testing/developmental phase you may suffer a casualty getting to the end result.
Cool beans that you are trying to create an upgrade path to Centroid Acorn for old legacy Ah-ha! systems.

Short video clip:
https://youtu.be/R0HyHKSciKg

[Grifftek]

I have all of the inputs hooked up and all work fine except for input 3. Input 3 was working fine, it was the first input I connected. I just noticed that it wasn't working a couple days ago. the cable that goes from the control pendant to the electronics cabinet is a shielded cable, it is only connected to the e-stop and push buttons in the pendant, it only passes a ground through the individual switches directly to the inputs. so there is no chance that power is being applied. On the db37 cable, there is one pin that has 5 volts being supplied to it but it's not connected to the DB25 cable
Some photos of the control pendant:

The DB 37 cable has been relocated in a bracket behind the KBSI-240D and there is a custom-made db37 to db25 adapter cable to the acorn.