Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Moderator: cnckeith
-
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:28 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: Yes
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
- Location: SoCal
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Hey everyone, I know it's been a while since my last post. Life can get in the way, but since then, there have been several updates.
First off I resolved my issue about the Y axis servo placement. I was doing the final measurements and design changes for my Y axis extension tube when I thought about making sure that the X axis servo would fit without modification, because regardless I knew it would require an adapter plate made to bolt on the motor to the original mount. Well I am glad I check prior to ordering the material and fabricating the plates and extension tube because it wouldn't fit!! I mocked it up to the X axis servo mount to make sure the servo shaft and ball screw shaft were concentric, and they I moved the table in the X axis to check for clearance but it would hit the side of the motor... so now I had to make a call, would I make an extension tube for the Y axis AND make something to offset the X axis motor to the side so it would clear the table (something like a timing belt and pulley setup)?
So after lots of thinking, I decided to scrap the whole idea and just buy new servos. The servo motors I originally wanted to use are Yaskawa SGMGV-30A3A61 servos, but I decided to buy 2 Yaskawa SGMGV-20A3A61 so its a smaller motor with less power but I am confident it will be more than adequate for my machine. The new motors actually have the exact same mounting pattern as the old servos so it actually bolts right up in place of the old servos. However, the motor shaft sticks out too much and is way too close to the ball screw shaft to have enough clearance to fit the shaft coupler. To resolve this, I will machine a spacer plate to fit in front of the servo to give the proper clearance between the shafts. I 3d printed a mockup adapter and it fits perfect so I will machine the spacers in the next couple weeks.
First off I resolved my issue about the Y axis servo placement. I was doing the final measurements and design changes for my Y axis extension tube when I thought about making sure that the X axis servo would fit without modification, because regardless I knew it would require an adapter plate made to bolt on the motor to the original mount. Well I am glad I check prior to ordering the material and fabricating the plates and extension tube because it wouldn't fit!! I mocked it up to the X axis servo mount to make sure the servo shaft and ball screw shaft were concentric, and they I moved the table in the X axis to check for clearance but it would hit the side of the motor... so now I had to make a call, would I make an extension tube for the Y axis AND make something to offset the X axis motor to the side so it would clear the table (something like a timing belt and pulley setup)?
So after lots of thinking, I decided to scrap the whole idea and just buy new servos. The servo motors I originally wanted to use are Yaskawa SGMGV-30A3A61 servos, but I decided to buy 2 Yaskawa SGMGV-20A3A61 so its a smaller motor with less power but I am confident it will be more than adequate for my machine. The new motors actually have the exact same mounting pattern as the old servos so it actually bolts right up in place of the old servos. However, the motor shaft sticks out too much and is way too close to the ball screw shaft to have enough clearance to fit the shaft coupler. To resolve this, I will machine a spacer plate to fit in front of the servo to give the proper clearance between the shafts. I 3d printed a mockup adapter and it fits perfect so I will machine the spacers in the next couple weeks.
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:28 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: Yes
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
- Location: SoCal
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Secondly, I ordered and received the Delta C2000 drive and PG01L card. I installed the encoder card into the drive following the Tech Bulletin 316. I went ahead and mounted the drive in the electrical cabinet in the similar location as the old spindle drive that came in the machine. I also was able to pick up a pair of used PLCADD1616 cards to add for my ATC carousel I/Os.
Lastly, I have cleared out the electrical cabinet of all the old electronics I wont be using and starts to mount the Oak, Oak PSU, PLCADD1616, C2000 VFD, and the servo drives. I spent a lot of reading the manual, watching Marty's and Clough42's videos, searching the forums, etc. in regards to the palcement of the components in the cabinet. I want to make sure things are layed out well, in a logical and neat way that will minimize and electrical interferances. Nothing is mounted permently, so if anyone has and suggestions or improvements please let me know! I put the Oak power supply under the Oak itself, and I wasn't sure if it would be better to mount the PLCADD1616 on the cabinet above the Oak or directly on top of the Oak (see pictures below). If any of those components are in a bad location please let me know!
Lastly, I have cleared out the electrical cabinet of all the old electronics I wont be using and starts to mount the Oak, Oak PSU, PLCADD1616, C2000 VFD, and the servo drives. I spent a lot of reading the manual, watching Marty's and Clough42's videos, searching the forums, etc. in regards to the palcement of the components in the cabinet. I want to make sure things are layed out well, in a logical and neat way that will minimize and electrical interferances. Nothing is mounted permently, so if anyone has and suggestions or improvements please let me know! I put the Oak power supply under the Oak itself, and I wasn't sure if it would be better to mount the PLCADD1616 on the cabinet above the Oak or directly on top of the Oak (see pictures below). If any of those components are in a bad location please let me know!
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Putting the Oak logic power supply behind the Oak is a perfectly reasonable installation; but do it so that the screw terminals are visible and accessible. I usually mount them so that the terminals stick out about 1/2", between H2 and H3.
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 3329
- Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2016 10:03 am
- Acorn CNC Controller: Yes
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: Yes
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: 100505
100327
102696
103432
7804732B977B-0624192192 - DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
- Location: Boston, MA
- Contact:
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
For much the same reason as Marc, I shortened the legs on the Oak aluminum frame, and mounted the power supply on the Oak cover so the terminals would be accessible.
Cheers,
Tom
Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
I have CDO. It's like OCD, but the letters are where they should be.
Tom
Confidence is the feeling you have before you fully understand the situation.
I have CDO. It's like OCD, but the letters are where they should be.
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:28 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: Yes
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
- Location: SoCal
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Thanks guys! That definitely makes more sense to have the screw terminals visible right under the H2 and H3 connectors. Also, I might modify the Oak stand to shorten it but I really only need to do that for the esthetics.
Also, that's for showing a picture of Oak board with the ADDOLC1616 on top! That answers that question
I want to buy some 1.5x4" wire duct to match the existing wire duct in the cabinet. I found some from AutomationDirect, is there a different source I should be buying it from? I wanted buy the spindle encoder from them so I figured I would buy the wire duct at the same time.
Thanks again!
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
I buy all my wire duct from Automation Direct.
Get the "thin finger" variety. That will allow more of your wires to have a straighter run from their terminals, into the wire duct.
Get the "thin finger" variety. That will allow more of your wires to have a straighter run from their terminals, into the wire duct.
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 1
- Joined: Mon Jun 26, 2023 2:34 am
- Acorn CNC Controller: No
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: No
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
A Beginner's Guide to Installing Timing Pulleys
Timing belt pulleys are used to connect and synchronize the rotation between two shaft systems. These Pulleys are designed so that the teeth of the belt enter and leave the grooves with negligible friction. All Pulleys, stock and made-to-order, have minimum tooth-to-groove clearance(backlash).
Supreme Engineers established in 1996 by Manish Bavishi is a Mechanical Engineer with strong aim & innovative ideas. We specialize in manufacturing various types of Mechanical Power Transmission metal components. Our infrastructure can produce Non-Standard & Tailor-Made Timing Pulleys, Universal Joints, Keyless Clampex etc, even in small quantity & in least Lead Time. We have the ability to manufacture a variety of custom products.
Timing pulleys are an essential component of many mechanical systems because they assist in transmitting power and control the timing of various parts. If you're new to working with timing pulleys, this article will guide you through the installation procedure, offering step-by-step instructions and useful hints along the way.
Collect the essential tools and supplies:
Before you begin installing your timming pulley, make sure you have all of the essential equipment and materials. A wrench or socket set, a torque wrench, a pulley puller (if removing an old pulley), a belt tension gauge, and, of course, the timing pulleys will be required. Check that you have the right size and kind of pulley for your system, as well as any belts or other components.
Remove the old pulley and clean the shaft:
The first step in installing a timing pulley is to remove the old one and clean the shaft. Remove the old pulley with a pulley puller, being careful not to harm the shaft or surrounding components. Once the old pulley has been removed, wipe down the shaft with a clean towel or rag to remove any dirt or residue. This will ensure that the new pulley is fitted on a clean surface.
Install the new pulley on the shaft:
When the shaft is clean and clear of dirt, it's time for installing the new timing pulley. Start by aligning the keyway on the pulley with the key on the shaft. Slide the pulley onto the shaft, ensuring that it is fully placed and flattened against any surrounding components. Tighten the set screws on the pulley using a torque wrench, taking care not to overtighten and damage the threads. Finally, double-check the pulley alignment and make required changes before proceeding to the next stage in the installation procedure.
Align the belt with the pulley:
Once the timing pulley is properly fitted on the shaft, it's time to line it with the belt. This is an essential phase in the installation procedure since misalignment can cause early wear and tear on both the pulley and the belt. First, ensure that the belt is correctly adjusted and in excellent condition before aligning the pulley. Then, align the pulley with the belt using a straight edge or laser alignment tool. Before proceeding to the last stage of the installation procedure, make any required modifications.
Tighten the set screws and testing the rotation of the pulley:
Once the timing pulley aligns up with the belt, tighten the set screws. Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to the manufacturer's specifications. After tightening the set screws, rotate the pulley to ensure it moves smoothly and without wobbling. If there are any problems with rotation, double-check the belt alignment and tension before making any additional modifications. You're ready to move on to the next phase in your project now that the pulley has been securely installed and aligned.
Supreme Engineers established in 1996 by Manish Bavishi is a Mechanical Engineer with strong aim & innovative ideas. We specialize in manufacturing various types of Mechanical Power Transmission metal components. Our infrastructure can produce Non-Standard & Tailor-Made Timing Pulleys, Universal Joints, Keyless Clampex etc, even in small quantity & in least Lead Time. We have the ability to manufacture a variety of custom products.
Timing pulleys are an essential component of many mechanical systems because they assist in transmitting power and control the timing of various parts. If you're new to working with timing pulleys, this article will guide you through the installation procedure, offering step-by-step instructions and useful hints along the way.
Collect the essential tools and supplies:
Before you begin installing your timming pulley, make sure you have all of the essential equipment and materials. A wrench or socket set, a torque wrench, a pulley puller (if removing an old pulley), a belt tension gauge, and, of course, the timing pulleys will be required. Check that you have the right size and kind of pulley for your system, as well as any belts or other components.
Remove the old pulley and clean the shaft:
The first step in installing a timing pulley is to remove the old one and clean the shaft. Remove the old pulley with a pulley puller, being careful not to harm the shaft or surrounding components. Once the old pulley has been removed, wipe down the shaft with a clean towel or rag to remove any dirt or residue. This will ensure that the new pulley is fitted on a clean surface.
Install the new pulley on the shaft:
When the shaft is clean and clear of dirt, it's time for installing the new timing pulley. Start by aligning the keyway on the pulley with the key on the shaft. Slide the pulley onto the shaft, ensuring that it is fully placed and flattened against any surrounding components. Tighten the set screws on the pulley using a torque wrench, taking care not to overtighten and damage the threads. Finally, double-check the pulley alignment and make required changes before proceeding to the next stage in the installation procedure.
Align the belt with the pulley:
Once the timing pulley is properly fitted on the shaft, it's time to line it with the belt. This is an essential phase in the installation procedure since misalignment can cause early wear and tear on both the pulley and the belt. First, ensure that the belt is correctly adjusted and in excellent condition before aligning the pulley. Then, align the pulley with the belt using a straight edge or laser alignment tool. Before proceeding to the last stage of the installation procedure, make any required modifications.
Tighten the set screws and testing the rotation of the pulley:
Once the timing pulley aligns up with the belt, tighten the set screws. Use a torque wrench to tighten the screws to the manufacturer's specifications. After tightening the set screws, rotate the pulley to ensure it moves smoothly and without wobbling. If there are any problems with rotation, double-check the belt alignment and tension before making any additional modifications. You're ready to move on to the next phase in your project now that the pulley has been securely installed and aligned.
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:50 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: No
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Been a while, great progress, did you get it running yet?krissondors wrote: ↑Mon Mar 27, 2023 11:50 pmThanks guys! That definitely makes more sense to have the screw terminals visible right under the H2 and H3 connectors. Also, I might modify the Oak stand to shorten it but I really only need to do that for the esthetics.
Also, that's for showing a picture of Oak board with the ADDOLC1616 on top! That answers that question
I want to buy some 1.5x4" wire duct to match the existing wire duct in the cabinet. I found some from AutomationDirect, is there a different source I should be buying it from? I wanted buy the spindle encoder from them so I figured I would buy the wire duct at the same time.
Thanks again!
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 159
- Joined: Thu Jul 09, 2020 9:50 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: No
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Any progress on this Retrofit Kris?
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)
-
- Posts: 56
- Joined: Sun Apr 26, 2020 10:28 pm
- Acorn CNC Controller: Yes
- Allin1DC CNC Controller: No
- Oak CNC controller: Yes
- CNC Control System Serial Number: none
- DC3IOB: No
- CNC12: Yes
- CNC11: No
- CPU10 or CPU7: No
- Location: SoCal
Re: Cincinnati Arrow 750 VMC Retrofit
Not much progress has been done, I have been busy with more import matters so the retrofit has been put on the back burner but I have had some minor updates...
I finally machined the spacer plates for the servo motors out of aluminum. I would prefer to make them out of steel or cast iron but for now I just wanted to mount the motors and get everything working first.
I also got distracted by another project. I picked up a 2'x3' 24rpm router for cheap locally. I got a Acorn and 400w AC servos on it. I wanted to get that retrofit completed first before going too far on the Arrow retrofit so I can really learn my mistakes on thr router, since it's so much easier to work on and cheaper to repair if I screw up. It's mostly done, I just need to redo all the wiring since it's all just temporarily setup and really dial in all the settings. Then I will sell it and fully focus on the Arrow. I can't wait for the Arrow to be finished, I already sunk so much time and money into it and it will be a really valuable machine when it's completed. I hope my next update will be more significant!
(Note: Liking will "up vote" a post in the search results helping others find good information faster)