Centroid Community CNC Support Forum

The float switch in Bijur-style pumps is often a plastic bulb, containing a magnet, and secured to the stalk with a snap ring / circlip. The magnet activates a reed switch inside the stalk. Usually, the magnet is off center (high or low), so that you can reverse N.O. / N.C. operation simply by removing the float bulb and flipping it over. In one orientation, the magnet activates the switch when the bulb is down; in the other orientation, the magnet activates the switch when the bulb is up.

It might be worth testing and checking whether yours is that style. Or you could just invert INP9, as Marty suggested....

As always I want to thank both Marc and Marty.
I think I will pull down the tank, and invert the float. It is probably a good time to clean out the filter anyway.

I am going to try and get the vfd wired this week. I needed really small #6 eyelets which I had to order.
My question is can I jump output 7 to 8 common since this machine has its own contactor for the VFD? Labeled K10 Output 1 will control both contactors with the e-stop wired in series to get everything started.
Contactor K1 controls the 110v which feeds the dc rectifier and a few other things.
So killing the 24v to both contactors should stop the spindle and the drives.

Am I correct with this thinking?

Again thanks for all of the insight.

Jeff

My question is can I jump output 7 to 8 common since this machine has its own contactor for the VFD?

Yes.

Thank you marc.
Inverting the float did the trick.
Cabinet is all wired and cleaned up. I am going to fire it up tomorrow and check voltages to make sure everything is ok.
Then it time to pull the servo cables in and connect them. So far going pretty smooth.
I did deviate from the centroid schematic some. I opted to keep what they had in place already.
I am using the contactors as they had them wired.
The 1 on the right turns on the vfd for the spindle and the other one turns on the 110 vac to dc rectifier for the servo's, the z axis brake circuit, the way oiler and then using the front set on contacts for 24vdc for the solenoid for the drawbar air.
There was no reason to change what was there as it would have been just more wiring.

Ok here comes the next set of questions.
Should I change the belts while they are off? If so what does everyone recommend.

The next question is the rotary table. It is a Haas hrt310 that has a dc glentek motor in it.
It had this encoder connected to it. I think the resolution is too low, but I am not sure how finite a rotary table needs to be. If I could use it over great. Then there was this plug just hanging inside. I am guessing that this is the home sensor? If anyone knows which pins go where would be great.
I emailed centroid today to start to get a cable in the works for me. Trying to gather parts ahead of the curve.

Again I want to thank everyone here for this great forum and the knowledge they provide.

Jeff

Cabinet lit off fine tonight.
All voltages look good. Spindle turns as it should.
I did order some new gates 9257 series powergrip belts. There were not many options without changing the sprockets.
I am now waiting for centroid to send me the cable so I can wire up the rotary table. If anyone can answer my last 2 questions would be helpful.
Can I keep that encoder with the lower counts, or does it need to be higher? And if anyone know the pinout of that 4 position plug inside the haas.

I started to pull the motor cable into the cabinet tonight. I should have them hooked up soon to finish setting up the limits and the dro.

Thanks.
Jeff

You can probably run the rotary table just fine with the encoder it has.

Higher line count would be nice, but a 310 rotary table probably has 180:1 reduction (0.5 motor revs per table degree), so a 500 line encoder -- which provides 2000 counts per rev -- would give you 0.001 degree resolution. If all other mechanics were perfect, you would reliably be able to index to less than 0.010 degrees.

If that 3-wire plug is for a single home sensor, then it is probably a 3-wire prox. The red strand is probably +VDC. Black and blue would be 0VDC and the output, but could be either order. It could be PNP or NPN. That gives you four permutations you have to try out, to figure out how it works. There should be no harm in hooking it up incorrectly; it just won't close the PLC input.

For example, if you assume that BLK is 0VDC and that it is NPN:
RED: +24VDC
BLK: 0VDC
BLU: PLC INP14
+24VDC to IN 13-16 COM

If you assume that BLK is output and that it is PNP:
RED: +24VDC
BLK: PLC INP14
BLU: 0VDC
0VDC to IN 13-16 COM

etc..

Thank you Marc once again.
I will try that out this week. My mind said to do they exact same thing, I just wanted to make sure I was thinking correctly.
You said input 14 , but the schematics show input 7. I also opened the PLC that I loaded to make sure that I could use output 6 for the air solenoid.
It gets confusing as some of the schematics show out 6 as the work light. I will wire it up and take it from there.

Thank you again sir you have been a tremendous help.
Jeff

HAAS has manuals available on line for many of their machines and rotabs.

I looked marty. It was very vague on electrical, it showed mostly mechanical drawings

S-K Machine wrote: ↑Thu Sep 30, 2021 8:18 am I looked marty. It was very vague on electrical, it showed mostly mechanical drawings

That's where I found one for my HRT7