Milltronics MB24

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cncsnw
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by cncsnw »

I have not had any problems with the few dozen encoders I have used from Automation Direct.

Assuming that yours are mounted using the three tapped holes in the face of the encoder (rather than clamps around the rim), and assuming the encoder shafts really are 6mm, then you should be able to use the TRD-S2500-VD, with the existing shaft coupler and mounting hardware.

For the encoder-side connectors, to mate to Centroid-supplied cables, the housing is Molex pn 701070008 (Digikey WM2540-ND) and the contacts are Molex pn 16020115 (Digikey WM2515-ND). Centroid would probably sell you three sets if you call/e-mail them and ask.
S-K Machine
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by S-K Machine »

Marc......

You are the man!
Yes they use the three tapped holes in the face.
I am compiling a centroid order list right now.
I do need to order a few things from mouser or digikey also.
What is everyone using for terminal junction blocks inside the cabinet?
I was also thinking of buying a ferrule and crimper kit for the allin1 connections instead of just bare wire under the screws.
martyscncgarage
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by martyscncgarage »

S-K Machine wrote: Fri Jul 23, 2021 9:47 pm Marc......

You are the man!
Yes they use the three tapped holes in the face.
I am compiling a centroid order list right now.
I do need to order a few things from mouser or digikey also.
What is everyone using for terminal junction blocks inside the cabinet?
I was also thinking of buying a ferrule and crimper kit for the allin1 connections instead of just bare wire under the screws.
I use the ferrule crimpers and properly sized ferrules.
If you are going to follow the Centroid Schematic sets closely (Recommended), purchase the TB-1 15 position terminal block.
Reminder, for support please follow this post: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=383
We can't "SEE" what you see...
Mesa, AZ
S-K Machine
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by S-K Machine »

I am getting ready to start pulling it apart this week.
Everything is ordered from centroid,I think it will be here tuesday.
I took some voltage and amperage measurements yesterday inside the cabinet and documented them.
It looks like most of the wiring should still work. Even the contactors and the relay for the coolant pump.
I did order 2 new power supply's also.1 for the contactors and another for the logic side of the allin1.Overkill maybe.
I traced the wiring up to the spindle, and there is not an electric brake. That wiring is for the spindle fan. So as marc advised I shouldn't need to wire in the zero speed and up to speed connections on the vfd.
I pulled all of the covers off the servos and documented which way the drives turned. Blocked the z head on the table and put a bar thru the counterweight. Motors are ready to be removed and rewired this week as soon as the cables come from centroid.
I will pull the encoders off to make sure that they are 6mm shafts. Should I buy new couplers while it is apart? Cheap insurance, or a waste of time?
Marty the terminal block you mentioned, is that a regular item?
30A_Terminal_Block_4pos.jpg
If so, I have these in stock in my store.
I am hoping to maybe use what they have there now, and just feed to and from it.
20210710_135015 (Custom).jpg
The computer , keyboard, usb hub and touch screen also showed up this week. I should have some time to get that loaded and running the software before next weekend I hope.

So it is moving along.I will post pictures when some progress starts to happen.
And Ii am sure they will be a bump or two in the road I will need some help with..
Thanks again everyone.

Jeff
martyscncgarage
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by martyscncgarage »

Yes on the terminal block. Generally it is a 15 position barrier terminal block. Buy one new rather than using fewer position terminal blocks as one 15 position block takes less space than several individual blocks.
Me personally, I would follow the Centroid Schematics mostly 100%. Not sure I would mix old with new. But that depends on you and your budget.

I have a piece of .125" thick aluminum cut and drilled to match the old panel and then I do all my layout and mounting of components on the new sheet, basic bench test with the INCLUDED logic power supply. Then I proceed to wire the new panel leaving the old one in tact until I am ready to swap it out. Also leads to less down time. Then only thing I generally move over is the transformer and VFD. Those are usually the only things I would reuse. Wiring a new panel on the bench also makes it easier to test and trouble shoot, rather than the inconvenience of working in the cabinet.
I will also pull the motors off the machine and wire to the new panel when ready to make sure everything is working as expected. That way when I install the panel, its all about details. If I had a machine to retrofit in the field, this is the way I do it. It allows me the comfort of working in my shop, validating everything, and only spending a day or two on site to complete the installation.

If this is your first retrofit, I strongly suggest you follow the Centroid supplied schematic. Use a pencil to check off the wiring you have done. When done, go over the panel and check it again. Something I didn't do before was to create heat shrink tube with the wiring numbers. That helps when double checking wiring and future trouble shooting but probably also doubles the wiring time of the back panel.

Give yourself plenty of time to do the project. Expect to spend 40-80 hours depending on your experience.

Good luck, keep us posted on your journey. Above all else follow that All in One DC Installation manual to the letter. If you have questions, let us know what page you are on and what questions you might have. There are a lot of great people here who have done a number of control upgrades. I still consider myself a green horn. But feel comfortable with basic retrofits.

Marty
Reminder, for support please follow this post: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=383
We can't "SEE" what you see...
Mesa, AZ
cncsnw
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by cncsnw »

Regarding terminal blocks:

I would not use ones like the 4-position "barrier" block in S-K Machine's picture. It is larger than necessary; it does not have enough positions (so space is wasted with mounting holes for multiple blocks); it lacks square saddle clamps under the screw heads (so it will not securely accept wires with ferrules, only wires with spade or ring lugs); and chances are, it does not have jumper bars available.

The 15-position "barrier" blocks used by Centroid on their factory panels have a closer pitch; have (just barely) enough positions to wire a typical control; have saddle clamps; and have jumper bars available.

Personally, I would use DIN-mount terminals instead. If you want to follow a factory wiring schematic exactly, install twice as many blocks as Centroid shows positions (e.g. 30 vs. 15), so that you do not have to double up wires in any terminal. You can fit 30 "Euro 2.5" (T12, 5mm wide) blocks in the same space as the Centroid 15-position strip. DIN terminals are a little wider; but are more convenient to mount, and more versatile.
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by S-K Machine »

Thanks guys for the advice.
Can I just use the terminal block that they are using in the machine right now? I posted a picture for reference.
Marc,should I change out the couplers that are on the encoders? Is that something that is a wear item, or am I thinking too much.
I only ask as I need to order the encoders this week.

Thanks again guys.
Pictures are coming this week as progress resumes.

Jeff
cncsnw
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by cncsnw »

Unless they are obviously damaged (e.g. the bores are worn out from running loose, so they are no longer a slip fit on the shaft; or the setscrew threads are chewed up so they won't tighten properly) then there is probably no reason to replace the couplers.

The original terminal blocks look like decent quality ones to me, and you seem to have a reasonable supply of jumper bars for them. I would just use them.
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by S-K Machine »

I am moving right along.
I have most of the cabinet stripped down to what is staying.
I have the front control and wiring removed. I mounted the new keyboard tray and started making the plate to hold the monitor as soon as it gets here.
I will take pictures of progress tomorrow when I am back in the shop.
I took the motors home with me and over the weekend I started the prep work ,as we got rained on pretty good so no pool time.
I cleaned them out with some solvent and removed the tach plates. I drilled and countersunk screwed the upper bakelite plate as a dust shield.
I had to ream the encoder plate to 3/4" for the new units. Drilled and tapped the housing covers for the new strain reliefs.
Someone was in there before, as 1 of the connections were black taped up. The other 1 the the tach brushes were stuck open. Mess.
Also the set keys were stripped on most of the couplers.
I ordered new ones from automation direct that matched what came out.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/sh ... gs/gj-635d
Is the fiberglass resin going to be alright? Or should I have gone for the aluminum?
I only ask in advance as I would like to get these all back together this weekend.
So far moving right along.I am hoping the bench test in the next week or so.
Then it on to re-wiring the cabinet. I will take pictures of the progress this week.

Thanks again everyone.
Jeff
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Re: Milltronics MB24

Post by S-K Machine »

I am second guessing my choice for the encoder couplings.
The original were I believe an "oldham" type.But they are now too short and half the set screws are stripped out.
I ordered the fiberglass resin units from autmation direct.But now I am thinking that they are weak looking.
I did find something on mcmaster carr that will work.
https://www.mcmaster.com/9861T529/

Should I order these and wait to put the motors back together.I really just want to do it right once,not take it apart a bunch of times.
Please let me know which way I should proceed .I greatly appreciate everyone's advice.

Thanks.
Jeff
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