Milltronics MB24

[S-K Machine]

Tom it is not the helix I was concerned about, but more the time it takes. I am running this bore cycle very slow at 1 ipm or less depending on how big of a cut as to keep the chatter down.
I did what Marc suggested turned on the single point and made a mfunc19 file except I only put in the M5 not the M0 so I would not have sit in front of the machine to hit the cycle start button. The spindle stops at the bottom of the cut, rapids out but turns on again then shuts off.
I tried it tonight before I went home with a bore array to bore all 4 cylinders instead of a single cylinder. It seemed to work ok.
The line it leaves dragging the tool out is very faint. It really isn't any worse then my manual rottler boring bar. It will hone right out.

[tblough]

It takes the same amount of time as what you have done. Drill cycle starts the spindle, rapids to the safety distance, feeds to the bottom of the hole, rapid retracts to Z clearance, and turns off the spindle.

You've just moved the spindle off to the bottom of the hole instead of the top.

[dlenardu]

S-K

Were you able to reuse the existing power supply that was in the machine to power the servo motors or did you replace it and use the centroid rectifier? If you used the centroid rectifier what transformer did you use?

[S-K Machine]

I reused everything on the right side of the cabinet. See picture below.

I did also reuse the factory ac/dc rectifier board and caps for the servos and also the 90vdc circuit for the z axis brake.
On the bottom left side of the cabinet I reused the noise filter for the pc 120vac and even the fan that was underneath the servo boards.
That now cools the Intel NUC which so far has performed flawlessly.
I did change out the factory 24vdc power supply to a larger Meanwell unit.
There are now 3 24vdc supplies. The other 2 are mounted under the allin1.
1 runs the allin1. The second runs the output section and the contactors, and the third is for the input side. I added 2 more fuse holders.
Might be overkill but none of them are being taxed too hard so they should last.

Any other questions feel free to ask.

Jeff

[cnckeith]

great thread!

[dlenardu]

S-K

Does your machine have the 2 speed belt drive?

[S-K Machine]

Dlenardu... it has a lever on the side of the head that puts it into backgear. The lever trips a roller switch that is connected to the allin1 low gear input and the control then knows the speed range is low (50-500rpm) and inverts the signal to the VFD so the spindle rotates in the proper direction.

Thank you Keith. I have a ton more pictures and some video I need to get up.
Right now I have been taking junk blocks (cracked beyond repair), and using them to get all of the dimensions off them.
Since you guys will not part with the block software..hint hint...
What I have been doing is once I get a program proofed out..IE boring, decking, lifters, etc say for big block chevy, I then take that file and copy and rename it to say a small block chevy, then go in and edit bore depth, deck height, lifter location...etc. It works but is time consuming.
This week I am working on a trunnion rollover fixture to mount cylinder heads on to do fire rings and chamber softening.

Here is the flycutter I made on the centroid from a lathe chuckback. Profile, pockets and bolt holes. Then we gun blued it. Works great.

And look at the finish with CBN inserts

Jeff

[dlenardu]

That is a great finish on the block

[dlenardu]

S-K
Does your contactor run with 110v coil? What did you wire the Estop circuit into?

[S-K Machine]

The contactors in this system are activated with 24VDC.
What model milltronics do you have? Does it have DC servo motors or AC? What Centroid control did you buy?
You should post some pictures se we can see what you are working with.
Here is the machine when I purchased it. Whomever was in there made a mess of the wiring. But you can see the contactors to compare.

Here it is halfway cleaned up.

Milltronics used red wire for the 120VAC circuits and blue wire for the 24VDC circuits, if that is what you have.
I used a yellow wire for my E-stop circuit so I know what it is.
You should purchase the E-stop button from centroid as it has 2 sets of contacts.
1 set gets wired to input 11 telling the control the e-stop is active.
The second set goes from 24VDC to Output1 then to your contactor. Output1 is what closes the contactor.
They are 2 separate circuits.
If your contactor is in fact 120VAC, Output1 can still handle it I believe as the relays can take line voltage, just not large amperage.

Post some pictures of the machine cabinet as I am just guessing as to what you have.
I do have the factory schematic for the DC system if you need it.

Jeff