Encoder Basics

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eng199
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Re: Encoder Basics

Post by eng199 »

gttool wrote: Thu Nov 12, 2020 3:06 am Oak related
I have not been able to find any reference to using Absolute encoders in the forums .
looking at buying a pair of Delta A2 drives and servos for a lathe they are available with absolute encoders ?
Just waiting on a price back for them
Is there any plc programming changes to be made to use them ?
Thanks
The drives repeat position to the control in incremental form. The encoders will be incremental from the control's perspective. Absolute position retrieve from Delta is not supported on any current Centroid hardware.
martyscncgarage
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Re: Encoder Basics

Post by martyscncgarage »

Basic testing of a differential encoder on the bench by Polaraligned:
Reminder, for support please follow this post: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=383
We can't "SEE" what you see...
Mesa, AZ
polaraligned
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Re: Encoder Basics

Post by polaraligned »

Soldering to a DB-9 Connector.

I had a gentleman send me his cables and encoders because he kept getting differential errors. Upon examination I was able to readily pull one of the encoder wires right out of the pin. The solder did not flow out and bond to the pin as seen in this picture. (white wire)
IMG_4825.JPG
A close up of the pin shows no adhered solder.
IMG_4843.JPG
When I removed cable by heating solder joints, there were a couple that did not show any bonding of the solder. See second pin from left.
IMG_4844.JPG

I will show some good suggestions on soldering to these connectors in the following pictures:

First, use a good electronics flux on the pins. Apply fairly heavily. Do NOT use a plumbing solder as it is acid based and too corrosive for electronics.
IMG_4838.JPG
Heat the pin and lay a small bead of solder in the cup of the pin.
IMG_4846.JPG
Strip your wire a little longer than you need and flux it up, especially if it is copper that is not tin plated.
IMG_4847.JPG
Now tin the wire by heating it and adding a very little bit of solder. You can then snip the ends to proper length and you have no worries about stray strands of wire.
IMG_4848.JPG
You can then just lay the wire right onto the pins that have a puddle of solder then apply the iron tip to the wire and it will sink right into the pin.
Not perfect in the picture below, but I was dealing with previously used connectors.
IMG_4850.JPG
IMG_4853.JPG
If you do this correctly you will absolutely not need any sleeving to go over these pins.
It is best to use 63/37 rosin core electronic solder as it is a eutectic solder, that is, it has no plastic region- in other words, it goes from liquid right to solid as it cools. That leaves less chance for a slight motion as the joint is cooling to cause a cold solder joint. I used 60/40 here, but I have been soldering for 45 years. I would not recommend any lead free solders for the inexperienced. Lead is your friend :D

EDIT: And never melt the solder on the soldering iron tip. Heat the metal and let the solder flow to the heat. Don't let the solder melt off the iron tip and into the joint or the solder connection will fail. Often I put a small spot of solder on the iron tip which helps with transferring the heat from the iron to the joint and does nothing more.
Last edited by polaraligned on Sun Oct 03, 2021 5:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
martyscncgarage
Posts: 9153
Joined: Tue Mar 28, 2017 12:01 pm
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Location: Mesa, AZ

Re: Encoder Basics

Post by martyscncgarage »

Ugh, that is clearly not the way to solder.
Thank you for taking the time to show what it should look like when properly done withe the CORRECT iron, tip, temperature and solder.

Marty
Reminder, for support please follow this post: viewtopic.php?f=20&t=383
We can't "SEE" what you see...
Mesa, AZ
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