Wiring CW250 driver

[ShawnM]

Thanks for the motor data Nate. I assume there are a total of 4 motors with 2 on the Y axis. Those motors have an inductance rating of 3.6 which translates to a max voltage of 60 volts. That's figured by 32 x √3.6 = max motor voltage. So that's 32 x 1.897 = 60.7

I'm talking the wires between the motor drives and the Acorn. Those should be shielded 4 conductor wire, 22 gauge stranded is fine. It's best to shield EVERYTHING in my opinion but that may be overkill for some.

I see the pic of ONE 48 volt power supply, do you have two identical 48 volt power supplies? If so you can wire two drives to each power supply as one is not enough current for all 4 drives if they both are 10A like the one pictured.

Those motors are 5 amps so be sure to pick a motor driver with at least that much current ability. I'm assuming that the 5A printed in the spec sheet is "peak" current. Your motors are also sold by https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.com/ (the KL in the model gave that away) and they also sell Leadshine clones that work well. This is one that you could consider from them, KL-8060E, for your motors. They are a US company and you can get support from them. If you buy off eBay or Amazon you may not get any support. If you want to buy genuine Leadshine that of course is also good. This is just one of MANY options for you. Other on the forum can give you their opinion or suggestions as well.

These drives will also wire up per the S14976 wiring diagram wire for wire.

As for grounding install a ground buss bar where your incoming power is and earth ground each component on this same buss bar. Your VFD isn't grounded (you can see the empty screw marked with the ground symbol on the far left) and I'll bet the ground wire on the spindle connector also isn't grounded. Any shielded wire you have in the system, ground that shield from the end closest to the ground bus bar, ground only one end of the shield, not both. I can't tell if the spindle wire is shielded or not. I cant see the wires after they go into the wire duct. Is it a single cable that is shielded? This is probably the most important wire in the system to be shielded and grounded.

Study diagram S14976 for wiring the drives, be sure to order the DB25 breakout board if you decide on a Leadshine or Leadshine clone like the one I posted above. I can provide you with a Fuling wiring diagram when you are ready. I have the schematic for the 200 series Fuling to the Acorn.

[n8awol]

Thank you again for so much knowledge. I was about to purchase the driver you linked for me when I stumbled across this from the same company. https://www.automationtechnologiesinc.c ... ers/mx4660
Seems like this makes wiring much more simple, given it already has a DB25 connection and its one box to wire instead of 4. Also I do have 2 power supplies (I only photographed one but two are wired up. Ready to buy right now so as soon as I get a go ahead ill order.

[ShawnM]

These drive have their pros and cons. Like an All-In-One PC. If any ONE single component goes bad you have to replace the whole thing. It does make wiring much more simple, you are correct. You'll just need to be sure the pins are mapped properly between the two and this is done in the wizard.

If you use this type of drive you'll need to replace both your power supplies with ONE that has enough current for all 4 of your motors. You can't wire the two power supplies you have to the same drive.

Everyone will have their own opinion on this type of drive but in the end it's your call.

[n8awol]

Again forgive my ignorance, I see I can use two of my puls cps20 power supplies in parallel, would that cover the needs of the all in one unit?

[ShawnM]

I'm sorry but I don't know anything about that drive so your best answer would come from the supplier. I don't want to answer that and give you the wrong answer. I have no experience with it. Or look in the manual and verify.

[n8awol]

I’ll stop complicating everything and just order the drivers you suggested! I’ll figure the wiring out but you’re correct about things being all in one going wrong! Thank you so much for all of this. Also it seems as though they’ve wired large capacitors with the puls power supplies? Do I need to keep them for loads or? I’ll attach a picture of the birds nest of a cabinet I’m dealing with.

[ShawnM]

Please research the 4 in 1 drive Nate, I don't want to talk you out of it if that's what you want. Look in the manual and contact the supplier. Dont throw in the towel if you want to use it.

I'm not an electrical engineer but I would say the caps are not needed. I've never used one on a CNC but that doesn't really mean anything. Maybe they were using it to smooth out the voltage.

A good A/C line noise filter would be a good idea as well.

That's definitely an "Industrial CNC" brand machine. I'm staring at one right now.

[n8awol]

Your comment about “if one part fails” is really true I’ve run into that in many other situations and it’s a very good call a little learning up front will save me headache down the road! No worries!

[ShawnM]

Your comment about “if one part fails” is really true I’ve run into that in many other situations and it’s a very good call a little learning up front will save me headache down the road! No worries!

Ok then, moving on.

One more thing, does the machine have limit switches on each axis? They may be the wrong type switch for Acorn but we can check. Let me know what you have, either a pic or part number.

The machine has an e-stop correct?

Are there any circuit breakers inside the cabinet? Is there one near the e-stop on the outside?

[n8awol]

The machine didn’t have an estop but came with one in the box of parts. I found the wiring for one though! Just looks like it hadnt been reinstalled yet? It does have breakers, here’s several more pics and probably more valuable to you than my ramblings lol. You might also notice I mounted the power supply for the acorn but they can be moved easily I just thought it might go well there out of the way and close to the power source. (Located left side of machine)