Shielded Cables

[Muzzer]

Sometimes you have to take the shield connection through a connector pin using a length of wire, eg when you use a plastic circular connector. That video shows a good way to do this.

I pull the cores through the braid like that when I want a long, seamless tail without a solder joint but it's really rather pointless to do that if you are then going to cut it back right next to the bundle and solder a wire to it. You might as well cut the braid back, unweave it and then twist the short tail. Saves a whole lot of messing around although it doesn't look as mystical.

A floating shield, braided or foil, won't work so well unless it's grounded at at least one end. Whether you should ground BOTH ends of a shield is an old chestnut that could start a flame war. Let's just say there is no right or wrong answer - it's whatever works in each situation.

[tblough]

Sorry, two major things wrong in that video. No mechanical connection on the drain wire splice relying completely on the solder for strength. Second, the new drain wire needs to be the same size as the largest conductor in the bundle.

Agreeing here with Muzzer; no way are you goung to be able to flex and pull anything larger than around 14ga through the braid. Comb out the braid and then twist around the center conductors.

[martyscncgarage]

Richard, why don't you ask where ever you got the motors from if they sell extension cables.
I have settled on Leadshine Closed Loop motors and drives because you can order cables in the length you need.
I've done 5 systems with them, no troubles. I like them. Worth the money. CNC4PC.com can order them for you and have them dropped from Leadshine USA. I won't use Leadshine clone stuff anymore.
Buy once cry once....