Acorn Input Wiring

[Richards]

Here's an easy way to uncomplicate wiring the Acorn's inputs. I use a DIN rail with DIN terminal blocks labeled 1-8. The top side of each terminal block is connected to the corresponding Acorn Input 1-8. On the left side of the terminal blocks, I use three blue 4-position terminal blocks that are all electrically connected. Those blue terminal blocks are connected to +24VDC through a fuse. Both +24VDC inputs to the Acorn's Input terminals are connected to the +24V block. I know that on the Acorn, the two inputs are internally connected, but to keep wiring errors to a minimum, I physically connect a wire to each +24V terminal on the Acorn. On the right side of the terminal blocks, I use three gray 4-position terminal blocks that are all electrically connected.

When wiring a proximity sensor, which requires both +24V and GND, to an Acorn input, I just wire the proximity sensor's brown wire to +24V, it's blue wire to GND and it's black wire to the desired Acorn input pin.

The terminal blocks, terminal block markers, 20-gauge wire, wire ferrules, rail, and shorting blocks are all available at a reasonable cost from AutomationDirect.

[slodat]

Automation Direct has a terminal block made just for this.

https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/sh ... dn-tl14s-a

Quite handy. I like them for sensors that need power and for the DYN4 ZRI.

[Richards]

Those look look like awesome terminal blocks. I normally use top-feed, spring-loaded terminal blocks. They allow much denser component placement if space is limited. The blue blocks I use are model DN-Q12B-2-2-A. The gray blocks are model DN-Q12-2-2-A. The smaller gray blocks are DN-Q12-A.

[Richards]

Some of you may be asking why I would spend about $17 for terminal blocks and $15 for a circuit breaker or even more for a fuse holder and fuse. The simple answer is that by doing things this way, I simplify things. All the wires used with an input sensor are located within inches of each other. I can also use the cheapest multimeter from Home Depot to accurately verify that the input sensor is working within the specs in the Acorn User's Manual.

I learned long ago that the Acorn board is the world's greatest bargain for do-it yourselfers in the CNC world. I also learned that many DIYers are long on enthusiasm and somewhat short on electrical experience. Adding an input block with both +24VDC and GND signals available let's a new user easily connect his device and easily check the device's signals. Those new to electronics can quickly and easily learn how their devices work which gives confidence.

In the final build, the Acorn board is only 1/4th or even 1/8th of the cost of building a controller. Adding proper test circuits to get things up and running may make the learning curve much shorter.