Hardinge CHNC II+ Hickory LeadShine EL7 Retrofit

[glbreil]

It is difficult to find information on that probe in general it seems. I found the manual for it but that is about all.

There may be some issues with lower spring stiffness causing inaccuracies when using a touch probe meant for tip down vertical use in a horizontal arrangement. We only recommend TT-2 or TT-4 for horizontal use. I am not entirely sure if that applies to the DP-1 but I can at least warn you.

It’s been a while, but as I get closer to completion I am needing to roll back around to the subject of a probe.

I was able to get lathe tool setting style contact plates for the DP-1 probe.

I am going to try it and see how it work, and I was wondering if I could get a copy of the manual you found and if it has a wiring diagram.

Thanks Gary

[centroid467]

It is difficult to find information on that probe in general it seems. I found the manual for it but that is about all.

There may be some issues with lower spring stiffness causing inaccuracies when using a touch probe meant for tip down vertical use in a horizontal arrangement. We only recommend TT-2 or TT-4 for horizontal use. I am not entirely sure if that applies to the DP-1 but I can at least warn you.

It’s been a while, but as I get closer to completion I am needing to roll back around to the subject of a probe.

I was able to get lathe tool setting style contact plates for the DP-1 probe.

I am going to try it and see how it work, and I was wondering if I could get a copy of the manual you found and if it has a wiring diagram.

Thanks Gary

Hello Gary,
I thought I made a note of where I found the DP-1 manual but all I can find now are some of the individual sections of it as well as the original files for the manual drawings. I am attaching what I have found and I'll let you know if I dig up more.

From the drawing in DP1.zip and other probe cable schematics, I believe you should wire:
Pin 1 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 2 to a DC voltage supply. Do you have any records from the previous machine that you used this probe with? From the kit documents, it seems like it used 24 volts.
Pin 3 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 5 to Hickory TT input pin
Pin 6 to Hickory Probe/TT detect input pin
Pin 7 to terminate cable shield.

Snip of wiring diagram

[glbreil]

Hello Gary,
I thought I made a note of where I found the DP-1 manual but all I can find now are some of the individual sections of it as well as the original files for the manual drawings. I am attaching what I have found and I'll let you know if I dig up more.

From the drawing in DP1.zip and other probe cable schematics, I believe you should wire:
Pin 1 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 2 to a DC voltage supply. Do you have any records from the previous machine that you used this probe with? From the kit documents, it seems like it used 24 volts.
Pin 3 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 5 to Hickory TT input pin
Pin 6 to Hickory Probe/TT detect input pin
Pin 7 to terminate cable shield.

Thanks for the information and the diagram. I believe I understand Pin1, Pin2, Pin3, & Pin5, but I having a little trouble understanding from the schematic in the zip file how I should know Pin 6 goes to Hickory Probe/TT detect input? I see where it jumpers to pin 8 on the probe plug, but neither appear to connect to anything on the probe. The only thing that comes to mind for me, is that I would connect the wire to pin 8 to the -0V Buss and the wire from pin 6 to the Hickory Probe/TT detect input. I assume that when I plug in the probe it will complete the circuit from the -0v Buss to the Probe/TT detect input letting the Hickory know the probe is connected. Is it that simple? I have attached the full schematic from the zip file. Could you expound a little on this please?

Thanks Gary

[glbreil]

If I am correct in my assumptions about the probe detect circuit I believe the wiring for my DP-1 panel socket will look like this?

I should be able to connect pins 1,3, & 8 together at the panel socket and get by with a 4 wire shielded cable.

Thanks Gary

[centroid467]

Hello Gary,
I thought I made a note of where I found the DP-1 manual but all I can find now are some of the individual sections of it as well as the original files for the manual drawings. I am attaching what I have found and I'll let you know if I dig up more.

From the drawing in DP1.zip and other probe cable schematics, I believe you should wire:
Pin 1 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 2 to a DC voltage supply. Do you have any records from the previous machine that you used this probe with? From the kit documents, it seems like it used 24 volts.
Pin 3 to logic ground / power supply common
Pin 5 to Hickory TT input pin
Pin 6 to Hickory Probe/TT detect input pin
Pin 7 to terminate cable shield.

Thanks for the information and the diagram. I believe I understand Pin1, Pin2, Pin3, & Pin5, but I having a little trouble understanding from the schematic in the zip file how I should know Pin 6 goes to Hickory Probe/TT detect input? I see where it jumpers to pin 8 on the probe plug, but neither appear to connect to anything on the probe. The only thing that comes to mind for me, is that I would connect the wire to pin 8 to the -0V Buss and the wire from pin 6 to the Hickory Probe/TT detect input. I assume that when I plug in the probe it will complete the circuit from the -0v Buss to the Probe/TT detect input letting the Hickory know the probe is connected. Is it that simple? I have attached the full schematic from the zip file. Could you expound a little on this please?

Thanks Gary

DP-1 WIRING SCHEMATIC.png

Good morning Gary,

Yes, it is that simple
Pin 6 is tied to pin 8 to short the probe detect input to ground once it is plugged in. This is how probe detect works with all Centroid probes and is how we recommend wiring 3rd party probes as well.

Your diagram for the receptacle looks good and you should be able to use a 4 conductor shielded cable with no problems. Our version of that cable uses 8 conductors to have full compatibility with our various probes but I think it is unlikely that you will want to use a DP-7 on this machine so no worries there.

[cncsnw]

Yes, in early probes like this one, the probe-detect jumper was just installed in the 8-pin plug.

In later probes like the DP4 and KP3, that function was moved into the probe body itself, so that the probe would not be "detected" if the cord alone were plugged into the control's probe receptacle.

[glbreil]

Question: The only way to get the Ethernet cable from the Hickory board in the control panel on the back to the monitor and NUC location on the front is through a wire duct that has a lot of other wires in it. They are all shielded and the only high voltage is the 115v for the monitor and NUC.

Any problems with that? The only other option would be outside the machine.

On another note I got the probe panel connector on and hooked up to the machine today and started connecting some of the other inputs and outputs. Making some progress!

https://photos.app.goo.gl/KL88FycMxDj5WmwWA

[cncsnw]

We run the PC <--> MPU ethernet cable through the console conduit, along with 120VAC power, emergency stop, jog panel, MPG cable, etc. all the time. Not a problem.

Just keep it away from motor power leads that come from a frequency drive or servo drive. Those are your biggest source of noise.

[glbreil]

Thanks Marc, everything in there is low voltage except the 115v. Just wanting to avoid any issues to figure out later.

Thanks Much for the help! Gary

[glbreil]

I ran into another question, I need to answer before I get too much farther.

I wired the 220 V power for the Leadshine EL7 drives to the machine drive contactor that opens and closes with the e-stop, but while looking at the Hickory generic diagram, I noticed the drives are powered all the time and only the 24v is shut off by the e-stop.

Is that necessary to maintain communication through the ethercat with the Hickory board?

I can change it pretty easy right now. It just seemed like it added an extra layer protection with the drive power going off, but if it’s gonna cause a problem I will fix it now.

Thanks, Gary.