Inrush current limiter?

[DICKEYBIRD]

I have a 36V-16A toroid (wired for 110V input) for my mill's power supply. At the moment I have 2 x 100VDC-10000mfd caps and a 100V-30A rectifier. Is there a ballpark inrush current limiter value I can use? The data I found at "Google Engineering University" is way over my head so I'm hoping someone with practical experience and could steer me onto something close enough to work. There are many inexpensive ones of varying values online to chose from.

It will be powering 3 x DM-542A (possibly 4 down the road) stepper drivers that say 4A input in the specs. Surely the PS's input current won't be near that 16A rating all the time? Anyone care to take rough guess what it might be in use? It's a home built fixed gantry mill intended for 2.5D cutting of up to 1" aluminum at leisurely removal rates with 1/4" to 1/2" endmills.

Lastly, what about a "bleeder" resistor value?

[martyscncgarage]

I have a 36V-16A toroid (wired for 110V input) for my mill's power supply. At the moment I have 2 x 100VDC-10000mfd caps and a 100V-30A rectifier. Is there a ballpark inrush current limiter value I can use? The data I found at "Google Engineering University" is way over my head so I'm hoping someone with practical experience and could steer me onto something close enough to work. There are many inexpensive ones of varying values online to chose from.

It will be powering 3 x DM-542A (possibly 4 down the road) stepper drivers that say 4A input in the specs. Surely the PS's input current won't be near that 16A rating all the time? Anyone care to take rough guess what it might be in use? It's a home built fixed gantry mill intended for 2.5D cutting of up to 1" aluminum at leisurely removal rates with 1/4" to 1/2" endmills.

Lastly, what about a "bleeder" resistor value?

Dickeybird, what makes you think you need an ICL? The voltage is rather low. Looks like you will have a 50VDC power supply. Are you blowing fuses or tripping a breaker or? I'm not so sure I would be concerned with a bleed resistor for that voltage. Now if you were rectifying 110VAC, yes, ICL and bleed resistor. Just my .02 on the subject.


Marty

[DICKEYBIRD]

Dickeybird, what makes you think you need an ICL? The voltage is rather low. Looks like you will have a 50VDC power supply. Are you blowing fuses or tripping a breaker or? I'm not so sure I would be concerned with a bleed resistor for that voltage. Now if you were rectifying 110VAC, yes, ICL and bleed resistor. Just my .02 on the subject.

Thanks Marty! The main reason is that it popped the main circuit fuse instantly when I tried to power it up. After reading your opinion, I'm thinking I might have connected the 4 primary windings wrong. I need to research how to properly determine which wires go where to set it up for 110V. As luck would have it, my neighbor came down with a few drawings of parts to make before the company opens on Tuesday. No more playtime today!

[Dave_C]

Milton,

All the Torroids that I have with 4 wires for the primary windings have two sets of the same colors. All of mine are red and black. For 110v (120) the reds go together for one pair and the blacks go together for the other pair. So the windings are wired in parallel! For 230 volt, the red and black closest to each other in the center get tied together and the outer red and black hook up to 230 supply. So these would be in series.

I'm not sure if there is a standard color scheme for these or not.

Dave C.

[martyscncgarage]

Milton,

All the Torroids that I have with 4 wires for the primary windings have two sets of the same colors. All of mine are red and black. For 110v (120) the reds go together for one pair and the blacks go together for the other pair. So the windings are wired in parallel! For 230 volt, the red and black closest to each other in the center get tied together and the outer red and black hook up to 230 supply. So these would be in series.

I'm not sure if there is a standard color scheme for these or not.

Dave C.

I concur with Dave!
Marty

[DICKEYBIRD]

Mine has yellow, orange, gray & green. Resistance reading across the yellow/orange pair is 1ohm, gray/green is the same. I tied those pairs together, then the hot to one pair & neutral to the other. Plugged in the juice & no sparks, flames or blown fuse but there's no output. Does it matter which pair the hot goes to? This is my 1st linear supply...can you tell?

The output wires are red & white. The resistance across these is zero. Can that be right?

[martyscncgarage]

Mine has yellow, orange, gray & green. Resistance reading across the yellow/orange pair is 1ohm, gray/green is the same. I tied those pairs together, then the hot to one pair & neutral to the other. Plugged in the juice & no sparks, flames or blown fuse but there's no output. Does it matter which pair the hot goes to? This is my 1st linear supply...can you tell?

The output wires are red & white. The resistance across these is zero. Can that be right?

Where did you get the toroidal supply? Came with no paperwork?

If there is ZERO resistance something is open on the secondary side.....IF indeed you have the output correct.

Picture please....

[DICKEYBIRD]

Where did you get the toroidal supply? Came with no paperwork?

If there is ZERO resistance something is open on the secondary side.....IF indeed you have the output correct.

Picture please....

Came from a surplus outlet on the west coast recommended by Jerry Biehler (macona on HSM) & it was NIB.

[martyscncgarage]

Where did you get the toroidal supply? Came with no paperwork?

If there is ZERO resistance something is open on the secondary side.....IF indeed you have the output correct.

Picture please....

Came from a surplus outlet on the west coast recommended by Jerry Biehler (macona on HSM) & it was NIB.

I searched that part number....and guess what....you turned up.

You've been hoarding that thing for awhile haven't you?

I would try and connect Green and Gray OR Orange and Yellow to 110VAC and see if you get anything out of White and Read. If not, chuck it...sorry.
You should read some resistance on the secondary side. Its a coil. You could peel back the plastic and check the connections of the Red and White wire and see if they are soldered. Might be a reason they were surplus.....

[DICKEYBIRD]

It'll make a great trotline weight.