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Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 10:25 am
by Dave_C
X1 is Forward run, X2 is Reverse Run, and X3 is stop. Com is obviously Com.
This may be right but I'm not used to seeing three terminals and four wires needed for forward/reverse on a drive. Most of the drives I have experience with have settings in the parameters so that you can hook up {common to forward, X1} to run forward and{ common to reverse, X2} to run in reverse. So three wires! Shorting both X1 and X2 will usually cause the drive to stop or having both open should do the same thing. (all dive specific so read the manual) I know, boring!

You do have to chose this option in the parameters when you set up the drive.

As far as the 10v positive you hooked up, that appears to be the 10 volt output of the drive and not the 0-10vdc input terminal that the acorn wanted.

I've made that mistake in the past as well and it did not smoke the controller, but who knows?

And it would be nice if all drives used the same labeling system, but no, they all like to be different while trying to do the same thing.

The "Buss" thing they are talking about can actually be two things. One is does the drive receive [voltage or current] for the speed control? Acorn sends out 0-10 vdc so that is "voltage" . If you have a board that sends out 4-20ma then the jumper needs to be set for current. All of this is drive specific!

The second "Buss" thing is the {sinking or sourcing} jumper. This is not as complicated as it sounds. If you are not using a power supply to make control voltage and are using the internal control voltage of the drive then this will be set to sinking. IF you have an external power supply then you are sourcing! That's the basic rule but look at the wiring diagrams of your specific drive to be sure. Most manuals show examples of sinking and sourcing hookups. IF you do these wrong you can burn the NPN or PNP junctions and then they stay in one state FOREVER!

I'm not a fan of open collectors as I am old school and I prefer a good old isolated relay! That is why I used an Ethernet Smooth Stepper and a CM126 break out board for my CNC Lathe conversion runing on Mach 3.

But things are changing so I have to as well,

Dave C.

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:15 pm
by Mmedeiros89
Hi everyone. Thank you all for your advice and support. I wish I could be more help and get a PDF, but I can't really find one. This is the vfd I got.

https://www.amazon.com/LAPOND-Inverter- ... B01DKJWM62

The manual that came with it is a soyanpower svd-e manual, which when I Google it, takes me here

http://m.soyan-tech.com/variable-freque ... e-vfd.html

I will try to get some pictures up of it, and hopefully they can assist everyone. I took apart the VFD, and saw where the jumpers SHOULD be, but there are no connectors to make the jump. I think my unit was not meant to be controlled through pc. CNC12 does pop up and run. I sent an email to centroid yesterday about the situation, and hopefully, I can work things out. I'm more worried at the fact that I purchased the mill pro, and it won't transfer :(

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:21 pm
by frijoli
Mmedeiros89 wrote: Sat Dec 09, 2017 12:15 pm CNC12 does pop up and run. I sent an email to centroid yesterday about the situation, and hopefully, I can work things out. I'm more worried at the fact that I purchased the mill pro, and it won't transfer :(
Don't worry about the transfer. That's just a matter getting the Centroid folks to set up the new license code. They are really good folks and won't leave you hanging. Trust me on that.

Based on what I read in this thread you don't have a lot of seat time with industrial electronics, so my suggestion to you is that once you get the new controller, look at the schematics, buy the brands in the schematics, and hook it up EXACTLY as in the schematics. IF there is ANY question about whether you connected it properly, DO NOT TURN IT ON, until you have verified it with the guys on here.

I've been around this stuff for 30 years. I understood the schematics incorrectly and asked here. I was corrected before I powered up and this group of folks save me some smoke letting.

Clay

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:35 pm
by Mmedeiros89
I do not have much experience with industrial electronics. I should have known better, and asked before firing it up, but now, I've learned. Here are some pictures of the manual for the VFD. Hopefully this is enough to go off of to get a 100% answer on what happened. I purchased a different VFD all together that states it is able to be controlled by PC. I'll be double checking with you guys before firing anything up next time around :D Hopefully Centroid can get back to me soon, so i can have another acorn by this week.

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 2:45 pm
by Mmedeiros89
Here's a picture of the VFD. I'm pretty sure this is where the jumpers should be

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 4:25 pm
by Dave_C
Hum, I only see one block with a J1 which usually indicates a block for jumpers but there are none on it nor is it labeled with anything I recognize.

Let me dig into the manual and see what I can see.


30 minutes later: I can't find a manual online! That's a first..

I blew up your pictures above and AI1 is the input for your 0-10VDC control signal form the acorn board.

So looking at your top picture showing P3.01 through P4.01, this drive was set by default to work on 3 wires. X1 to common will run forward and X2 to common will run in reverse. When both are open, drive will stop.

There are 26 items to choose from as to what X1-X5 can do!

In the absence of any visible jumpers it appears this drive is self powered and does not need an external power source, just close the x1 to common for forward and x2 to common for reverse, thus making it a sinking setup, not sourcing.

I test this by powering up the drive with the motor attached, but no acorn board attached, then just jump between X1 and Common and the drive should start turning the motor. Then test between X2 and common and it should reverse. If that works as expected then hook it to your acorn boards proper terminals.

Dave C.

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Sat Dec 09, 2017 7:55 pm
by martyscncgarage
VFD is Junk :cry:
Did you see the silicone over the termials you need? DO NOT CONNECT TO THE 10V terminal!They probably did that to save a few pennies on the build.
Silocone VFD.png
I do not believe your VFD can be controlled with an analog input either

I suggest you drop the idea of using that VFD. Go to factorymation.com or dealerselectric.com and look at the TECO VFDs.

What kind of machine are you trying to convert? What size 3 phase motor is on it?
Last resort, some folks are having some luck with the Huan Yang VFDs. I bought one from SOLAR JEAN on ebay. The sell one without the ability to connect and use a braking resistor which they have in stock in the US. They also sell one with an external braking resistor but expect to wait several weeks for it.

Factorymation.com or http://dealerselectric.com/ are my favorites for VFDs

Contact centroid about your Acorn. You didn't say for sure whether or not it still communicates with Centroid CNC software/PC

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Mon Dec 11, 2017 5:08 pm
by Centroid_Liviu
If you give our Support Department a call at 814-353-9290 Option 4, they can issue you an RMA # for the return of the damaged board. Once we have the old board in we can issue you a License File for your new board, transferring the Pro or Ultimate License to it.

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 11:48 am
by cnckeith
I like automation direct GS2 VFD's, never had a problem with them.
easy to setup with acorn as well.
https://www.automationdirect.com/adc/Sh ... -_575_VAC)
gs2.JPG

Re: Fried VFD and Acorn

Posted: Wed Dec 13, 2017 12:24 pm
by Gary Campbell
Plus 1 to the GS2 VFD's. Easy to program and good IO options. Reasonably priced. Single phase input options to 3hp. I use about 20 a year almost exclusively. One exception is that Yaskawa has a model that is single phase rated to 5hp. I will look up the model number and post it, if needed